"We want customers to feel comfortable with our food, but still surprised a little by what we do and the ingredients we use," says Hu. Diner executive chef T J Harville.
Photographs by Justin Fox Burks.
Have you noticed? Parker House rolls are having a moment, and at Hu. Diner, the folded throwbacks are delicious, deep-fried, and — much like the original recipe — sprung from a mistake.
Here’s the back story from executive chef T J Harville: A batch of beignet dough, left unattended, over-proofed, so cooks punched it back down and, for a second time, forgot about it. The dough rose again, making it useless for beignets. So, the kitchen got creative. “We thought, let’s throw some into the deep fryer to see what happens, and we ended up with a dinner roll,” Harville says.
Cornflake fried chicken.
By the time Hu. Diner opened in mid-January at the corner of Madison and Main, cooks had perfected the rolls’ preparation: Eliminate the sugar, intentionally double-proof the dough, deep-fry to order, and toss the pillowy rolls in a little salt, cardamom butter, and benne seeds, a Southern heirloom variety similar to sesame. “The rolls are unique, a big hit, and one of the most lucrative mistakes we’ve ever made,” Harville says.
Baby Gem lettuce salad with Green Goddess buttermilk dressing.
Other surprise twists weave throughout the restaurant’s menu, developed for a modern American diner serving both quick lunches and more leisurely meals. Yes, customers can grab a good cup of coffee and a slice of classic pie. (Meringues! Berries! And chocolate chess, to name a few.) Burgers and milkshakes also are popular, including kid-friendly flavors and boozy adult combos. But look more closely at the menu, and the hand of an experienced chef is clearly at play: For brunch, Asian-inspired soufflé pancakes served with Chantilly cream; for lunch, crawfish mac and cheese made with smoked Gouda and Velveeta, or, for lighter choices, baby gem lettuce salad or white bean ragout with clams. And for dinner? Try cornflake fried chicken served with house-made hot sauce, slaw, and pickles.
Hu. Diner opened in mid-January at the corner of Madison and Main.
A Kentucky native, Harville grew up canning, and he likes to incorporate pickled vegetables into his food. Diners can’t help but notice the half-gallon Mason jars filled with pickled produce that line the restaurant’s room divider, a practical component of Hu.’s classy design by Brooklyn-based Home Studios.
Hu. Diner is an extension of the Hu. Hotel, formerly the Madison, and the restaurant’s light-filled interior features an open kitchen and upscale details, like copper light fixtures and a polished bar and kitchen pass made from zinc. Plus, there’s the restaurant’s over-sized windows, which Harville can’t wait to throw open come spring. “Memphis has a lot of life. You can feel it,” Harville says. “And Main Street is absolutely beautiful.”
Souffle pancakes at Hu. Diner.
3 S. Main St. (901-333-1224) $-$$
