photograph by bruce vanwyngarden
Memphis Whistle occupies a colorful bungalow at the eastern end of Young Avenue — on the outskirts of Cooper-Young, you might say. But because of the teal, royal blue, and deep purple paint job you can’t really miss it — and you shouldn’t, because this little gem is well worth a visit. Or several.
As I enter, I’m greeted by two women seated at the little five-seat bar, and Freddy (whom I later discover is Winifred) Henry, who's working the bar. It’s a welcoming scene, cozy and reminiscent of some of the little home joints you can find on New Orleans backstreets.
Henry takes me on a tour of Memphis Whistle’s four eclectically decorated rooms, including the sassy bathroom and a luscious salon room. This place is obviously a labor of love, and I have to admit I could see myself hanging out in the salon on one of the stuffed chaises some evening.
photograph by bruce vanwyngarden
Jef Hicks
I’m soon introduced to owner and chief mixologist Jef (one F to give?) Hicks. He says the restaurant was born of the pandemic — “and one of the best things to come out of it,” he adds. “When the pandemic hit, we all lost our jobs, so it was a quick sink-or-swim moment. Some of us decided we would deliver cocktails and food — and masks and T-shirts — anything to keep a little cash-flow going. We were looking at it as a way to promote social distancing, reduce drunk driving, and to let people have the fun of a bar or restaurant in their homes, since everything was closed.”
“The most fun part for me is creating a drink for somebody. I like to ask them questions: What kind of flavors do you like? What kind of alcohol do you drink? And then I just riff and build off of things I know in order to create something unique and fun.” — Jef Hicks
When the pandemic started to ebb, Hicks decided, “I didn’t want to go back to letting someone else control my destiny,” he says. “So we found this place, which used to be Tam’s. We rebuilt the mantels, re-did the floors, and repaired walls. The bar is made from doors salvaged from the neighborhood.”
“And, honey, the food here is delicious!” says one of the ladies at the bar. (Did I mention this is a small space?) “Here,” she says, “try some of this sausage and cheese plate.”
I decline but make a note to come back and give the food a try at a later date. The menu is an ambitious and eclectic melange of sandwiches, burgers, chili, bar food, and even some vegan and vegetarian offerings.
Hicks says Memphis Whistle’s menu is as locally sourced as possible, from regional spice purveyors to local Longhorn Beef and family-owned bakeries. “We want to support small businesses like us,” he says, “because that way the money stays in the community.”
But this column is called “Sips” after all, and I’m here to try a signature cocktail, as tempting as the food menu may be.
“So, what am I going to drink?” I ask Hicks. “I’m making you a fun one,” he says. “It’s got absinthe, Chartreuse, Japanese gin, lemon juice, and simple syrup.”
“Good lord,” I say. “What’s it called?”
“Well, I guess I’m going to have to come up with a name for it, aren’t I?”
“Oh, I got it,” says one of the sausage-and-cheese ladies. “How about ‘Absinthe Makes the Heart Grow Fonder?’”
“Oh, I like that,” says Hicks. He turns to me and grins, “So, uh, yeah, that’s what it’s called.”
After a minute or so, Hicks slides the AMHGF my way. It’s a lovely presentation: a lime-green-colored cocktail in a frosty-looking martini glass. I take a sip. The first flavor that hits the tongue, unsurprisingly, is licorice, but it’s cut with just the right amount of crispy citrus, so the absinthe doesn’t overwhelm the drink. It finishes with a lingering sweetness. It’s very refreshing, and obviously very potent, given that the absinthe is 124 proof. One of these will make you witty. Three will put you in an Uber.
“The most fun part for me is creating a drink for somebody,” says Hicks. “I like to ask them questions: What kind of flavors do you like? What kind of alcohol do you drink? And then I just riff and build off of things I know in order to create something unique and fun.”
Sort of like Memphis Whistle.
Memphis Whistle is located at 2299 Young Avenue, 901-236-7136.
