Memphis Eats A-Z

These are the places that spell out the alphabet of local dining.

by

Before you cook a meal, you need to source the best, freshest ingredients. And before you can tell a story, you need an alphabet, and then a lexicon. Any chef or writer would tell you it’s not just about picking favorites: It’s about finding balance in the whole dish, harmony in the completed story.

Here we present an alphabet of ingredients, building blocks of Memphis flavor. These are the places that spell out the story of local food: the tables that still echo with childhood memories, the humble joints that can shift your perception of a cuisine with a single plate, the comfort of consistent dishes in tough times.

In typical times — whatever those are — we devote a portion of our February dining issue to the top ten new restaurants in town. But no one needs us to point out that these are not typical times. Instead of highlighting the new and novel, we’ve chosen to pay tribute to the time-honored and trustworthy, the places that have sustained us through good, bad, and just plain weird times.

These spots are the ones that stick with you; longtime haunts where childhood memories are made; a eureka meal, when one plate changed your whole perception of a certain type of cuisine; or a warm, comforting plate to turn to during tough times. – Anna Traverse Fogle

B.J. Chester-Tamayo opened Alcenia’s in 1997, naming it for her mother, a frequent presence in the restaurant until her death a bit over a year ago. Alcenia taught B.J. to cook, and the result is one of the most popular soul food eateries in town, a place that’s normally a riot of color and warmth where customers are met with big hugs. The pandemic ended the hugs, and it only serves takeout now, but it’s still the classic goodness that lures folks plain and fancy. One visitor in 2008 was Guy Fieri, whose Diners, Drive-Ins and Dives TV show was a huge boost to Chester-Tamayo’s down-home reputation. – Jon W. Sparks

Since 2002, the Beauty Shop has been ultra-cool and cosmopolitan. Sculptor Wayne Edge’s astonishing bar and wormwood tables blend wittily with sublime art as well as the hair dryers, relics of the building’s previous life. But it’s the food that brings people back, beguiling concepts created by chef/owner/genius Karen Carrier’s singular approach. She’s a regular practitioner of reinvention and her culinary combinations are easy to swallow — pork chop and grilled peach, for example, or the filet mignon with maple-glazed bacon and frites, or a ribeye souvlaki salad — and you can start it off with grilled Japanese eggplant. Stylin’. – JWS

Sometimes, there’s a coffee drink that’s made just for you. In my case, that’s the Cinnful Jim, a cinnamony delight that perks you up with several kicks of espresso. As an undergraduate student at Rhodes College, many a day were spent loitering in the brightly lit Café Eclectic dining room on McLean, sipping on one of their many signature drinks, enjoying some fresh food, or listening to a student-led jazz music ensemble. The café almost acts like a Midtown hub (but there are other locations, too); if you venture in, you’re sure to meet a colleague, a friendly face, or an old companion from days past. – SXC

While Dino’s fills the “D” slot in our A-Z list, it really should be in the “F” slot. The F is not for a failing grade, but rather for the family feeling they provide with every meal. Their signature chicken Parmesan and stuffed jumbo shells are carefully made from family recipes that date back decades. On Thursdays, their “All You Can Eat Spaghetti” nights feel more like a family affair than a promotion. The dining room is always filled with college students, couples, or hungry Midtowners looking for a good place to eat. – Matthew J. Harris

There are plenty of fine-dining establishments in Memphis, but Erling Jensen sets the standard. You could start with fried buttermilk quail with stone-ground grits, pheasant sausage, and veal jus. And then perhaps the saffron crawfish bisque? For the main course, how about Guadalupe Mountain elk chop, stilton pommes purée, and apple braised red cabbage? Or maybe just the rack of lamb. You get the idea. Add a generous wine list, a recently expanded bar, and nonpareil service, then you have some of the finest dining anywhere. – JWS

Nobody’s a real Memphian if they haven’t eaten at the Four Way. Opened in 1946 as a poolhall grill by Clint Cleaves, the chauffeur to political boss E.H. Crump, it’s one of our city’s oldest restaurants. Year after year, readers vote it the best soul food eatery in town, expanded over the years by the William Bates family, who still run it. A landmark of the Soulsville neighborhood, customers have included Dr. Martin Luther King Jr., Elvis Presley, Aretha Franklin, and musicians from Stax, just down the street. This is the real thing. Here you’ll find neck bones and yams, pot roast, catfish, all kinds of vegetables, finished off with homemade cobbler. You won’t leave hungry; it’s just not possible. – Michael Finger

I could wax poetic for days about the Global Café, Crosstown Concourse’s international food hall, which has made a permanent residence in my takeout rotation thanks to its free delivery. Chefs Fayha (Syria), Ibti (Sudan), and Maria (Venezuela) all whip up some of the best recipes they’ve brought from their home countries, while general manager Juan pours some very generous (and I mean generous) colorful cocktails. The social enterprise model instituted by owner Sabine Langer created a space for immigrants and refugees to share a bit of their food and culture with Memphis. It’s always a treat to see what new specials will pop up on Global Café’s menu. – SXC

If you’re looking for Memphis institutions, Huey’s is as sure a bet as any. Ask any Memphian where they go to get burgers, and Huey’s is always going to be in the conversation. The Boggs family’s restaurant has been running strong since 1970 with its “World-Famous Huey Burger,” but there are plenty of options to go round: a Southwestern twist with the Señor Huey, the barbecue-boosted Bluff City Burger, or the 10 percent vegan Beyond Burger. And any burger goes well with a side of Huey’s immensely popular sweet potato fries. – SXC

The only problem with India Palace is that it will spoil you for all other Indian restaurants. I was lucky to grow up a block and a half from their peach building at Poplar and Evergreen; their cooking has remained comfortingly consistent over the many years. We favor vegetarian specialties like palak paneer (rich spinach with cubed cheese), daal maharni (deeply spiced lentils), chana masala (chickpeas in a tangy tomatoey sludge), and baingan bharta (eggplant cooked down to smoky velvet). Flatbread (I reach for the whole-wheat tandoori roti) for dipping and sopping is not up for debate. My husband and I have ordered from India Palace on some of our best and worst nights: on our wedding night, and after a death in the family. I swear they can tell when we need a little care, throwing extra snacks or vegetables into our carry-out bag. Empathy can take the form of mango lassis and samosas, presented with kindness. – Anna Traverse Fogle

If you somehow were not aware (phh), I am the dog who posed for a cover of this magazine (May 2019) while eating a rainbow snow cone from Jerry’s. I have had many good days, but that was one of the best — my tongue has never been so cold, or so colorful. Jerry’s is nirvana if nirvana were a year-round snow-cone stand that also serves snack-bar savory classics, and that sounds like my nirvana anyway. Like if a belly rub turned into a business. I hear Jerry’s is a Memphis institution with two locations and what the humans call “a retro vibe,” but what I know is that the people there kept replenishing my snow cone after I plunged my snoot into its chilly sweetness again and again, and my god, I wish my humans would do the same trick with my dinner each night. – Lily Bear Traverse

Quick — to Kwik Chek! The unassuming little Madison Avenue convenience store-meets-deli serves up Greek- and Mediterranean-style meals certain to satisfy. The bipimbap burger caused quite a stir on Memphis foodie social media feeds a few years ago — and with good reason. The wraps are edible rhapsodies. Kwik Chek’s shish kebabs are a perennial favorite in our house, and you’d be crazy not to crave their fried mandus or rice pudding. The turkey club makes for a laudable lunch as well. – Jesse Davis

The Little Tea Shop is THE place to go Downtown for lunch for comfort food, including the Lacey Special (baked chicken and cornbread), and tantalizing turnip greens, which some customers make their complete lunch. The heart and soul of the restaurant, temporarily closed during the pandemic, is owner Suhair Lauck, who seemingly knows everybody in Memphis. She also is responsible for special menu items, including Moroccan chicken. The restaurant is the subject of a documentary, The Little Tea Shop, by Molly Wexler, who calls the restaurant the long-time “business person’s go-to place.” And, Wexler says, “Imagine the conversations they had there. If only the walls could talk.” – Michael Donahue

Only a hop, skip, and a jump away from Memphis magazine headquarters, Maciel’s Tortas & Tacos saw many a staffer in the pre-covid times. The fast-casual restaurant offers all the handcrafted Mexican classics you could ever want. The tightly packed burritos offer a surprise with the inclusion of french fries, while the fried tacos pair a perfectly crunchy shell with delectable proteins (my recommendation? Try the spicy Tinga Tacos). And there’s plenty more for every return visit (since you will be back): fajitas, nachos, huaraches, quesadillas, postres, you name it. – SXC

Two words greet you as you enter Napa Café. Wine. Dine. They’re boldly emblazoned on the East Memphis restaurant’s sign, each on either side of the Napa Café logo. They perfectly and simply crystalize the essence of the restaurant, a neighborhood favorite on Sanderlin since 1998. Untold special occasions — anniversaries, birthdays, and first dates — have been celebrated at Napa Café. Maybe that’s because its dark wood and warm lighting pulse with effortless sophistication, elevating any night into a special one. Napa Café’s wine list has earned it numerous awards and accolades, making it a can’t-miss experience for oenophiles. For food, the watermelon salad (with avocado and cucumber tossed in a basil-mint dressing and feta) is a must. So is the beautifully plated, miso-marinated salmon with forbidden black rice. – Toby Sells

If it’s crawfish etouffee or shrimp and grits, if it’s a Sazerac or an Abita Amber, if it absolutely has to be authentic New Orleans food, drink, and atmosphere and has to be in Memphis, it has to be Owen Brennan’s. For 30 years, the East Memphis restaurant has been where “‘Nawlins meets Memphis.” With its wide-open spaces, tall ceilings, and white tablecloths, Owen Brennan’s is easily reminiscent of some of New Orleans’ famed and storied dining halls, like Commander’s Palace. If you go, the bourbon beef brisket po’ boy and the gumbo are menu essentials. But don’t skimp on oysters done four ways. – TS

The lemongrass tofu at Pho Binh is the stuff of dreams and legend; when my family orders carryout, we ask for a whole extra order of the plump, bright, sour cubes for freezing. Pre-pandemic, the Vietnamese restaurant anchoring an unlovely strip of shops on Madison bustled with boisterous tables and with single folks reading novels and spooning steaming noodle soup, the pho of the name (pronounced “fuh”). The Pho Binh crew pivoted to the COVID-19 era with a gracefully choreographed, safe carryout set-up. The restaurant temporarily closed starting in mid-December when the virus struck the family behind this family business. Of the nearly 750 people who responded to a recent Facebook status update, not a one mentioned lemongrass tofu: We all just want the kind, welcoming folks who prepare it to be okay. – ATF

In my garage band days, when I would play out-of-town concerts, I always made sure to seek out a local barbecue offering at mealtimes, often to raised eyebrows from my bandmates. “You’re from Memphis. Why bother with barbecue from anywhere else?” Fair question, and my answer was always the same: “Research.” After years of research, I can say without hesitation that there’s nothing else quite like Memphis ’q — ’nuff said.

Barbecue is a culinary, cultural, and economic institution in Memphis. It’s where the sweet and heat meet (on the meat). It’s helped build generational wealth, pulled communities together, and drawn ’q-cooking competitors to Tom Lee Park from all over the world. Barbecue shops have been second homes for hungry Memphians, community hubs, and meeting places for the city’s movers, shakers, and music makers.

“It’s just part of the culture of Memphis,” says Ron Payne.

“Look at the essence of what barbecue is,” says The Barbecue Shop’s Eric Vernon. “Why do you have a barbecue? It is a time you are going to gather, the majority of the time, with people you love and care about. It brings people together.”

Best of all, there’s room for all kinds of ’q in our little city on the bluffs. Tops Bar-B-Q remains the go-to for many Memphians. Payne’s has a handle on mustard-based coleslaw and fried bologna sandwiches. The Rendezvous has the dry-rubbed ribs covered. Central BBQ is where locals and out-of-towners alike line up for a pre-game sandwich (or wings or nachos). The Barbecue Shop does pulled pork on Texas toast and barbecued spaghetti like nobody’s business. At the Cozy Corner, the staff and customers both are treated like family. Jim Neely’s Interstate Barbecue has racked up enough local and national awards to seriously stress the structural integrity of even the stockiest picnic table. The list of my favorite lunch destinations goes on, and I’ve already met and exceeded my word count. That’s because you can’t spell “Memphis eats” without the ’q. – JD

A mural of Lucca on the wall at Ronnie Grisanti’s Italian Restaurant says it all. “That’s our hometown,” says owner Judd Grisanti. The restaurant is “a tribute to my grandfather, to my uncle, and to my dad. They paved the road for me.” The menu includes traditional Grisanti favorites, including stuffed ravioli and lasagna with Judd’s “little bit of new world” added to it. But it also features Judd’s creations. The restaurant is a mixture of traditional and modern decor. “I wanted something new and old,” he says. “In Italy, they have all these old buildings, but they have a little modern twist to them inside.” – MD

There’s a heck of a lot that goes into a sushi roll. It’s a work of art, a finely composed amalgam of ingredients that pop with the colors of the day’s freshest cut, bright pinks and oranges welcoming diners to the oceanly heaven that beckons. And, they have to taste good, too. Sekisui ticks both boxes, and then some, with it’s carefully curated and artfully arranged sushi platters. You’ve got your California rolls, spicy tuna, and the regular ilk, but where Sekisui truly shines is in the customer-inspired rolls like the Kraken or T-Ruth, all crafted with that little bit of extra magic. – SXC

Tsunami chef/owner Ben Smith’s wit is dry but his fantastic Pacific Rim cuisine is anything but. It’s one of those places where you can confidently order “chef’s choice” and know that you’ll get a dish well-thought-out and meticulously executed. You could, for example, get the bacon-wrapped dates for an appetizer, but any of the choices are swoonworthy. The ever-changing “small plates” are exercises in perfection. The sea bass entree is legendary, but all the fare warrants a taste. You’ll just have to go back (or take out) more often. – JWS

When Chef Tamra Patterson (whom you might recognize from The Food Network’s Guy’s Grocery Games) opens the doors to her Underground Café, diners come flooding in. The restaurant, located in the Edge District, could see up to two- or three-hour waits. And that’s at a building that can hold up to 150 people! Indeed, the allure of Chef Tam’s creative fusion recipes is too much to resist. If you have to get one thing, make it the soul-infused Muddy Waters Mac and Cheese, which hits a home run through melding delicious cheesy goodness with crawfish, crab, and shrimp. – SXC

There’s a lot of great pizza in Memphis, but none better than Venice Kitchen’s Mona Lisa: mushrooms, artichoke hearts, black olives, red onions, and arugula with a blend of mozzarella and feta. Cozy (but not small), with a bar for solo visits, this East Memphis posto felice (happy place) is perfect for celebrations, romantic outings, or simply an evening away from your kitchen. The spicy chicken sandwich — Buffalo sauce! — will make a sad person smile. You might start things with an order of crawfish rolls. Delizioso. – Frank Murtaugh

I only have 100 words, but glance at the accompanying photograph; the expressions of sheer delight, exuberance, joy, and thrill my colleagues experienced upon the emergence of Westy’s hot fudge pie says it all. And you can expect that reaction for every menu item at the Pinch District’s best diner (formerly known as The North End). Sandwiches, catfish baskets, burgers, wild rice, tamales, North End creole: You want it, Westy’s has got it. And as Downtown continues to change, it’s always comforting to see that, 36 years on, Westy’s — and those hot fudge pies — is still going strong. – SXC

The “X” category doesn’t go to a local eatery; we’ve reserved it for “Mister X,” associate editor Samuel X. Cicci, this magazine’s resident “foodie.” Raised in Santa Fe, Sam came here to attend Rhodes College, and after graduation joined the staff of Memphis and Inside Memphis Business, while also contributing to the Memphis Flyer and Memphis Parent. Let’s face it, he plays a big role in anything and everything we do. When he’s not interviewing business leaders, he covers local sports and outdoor events, especially the Memphis 901 FC soccer team, oversees our home remodeling sections, writes and edits the “Dining In,” “Dining Out,” and “Tidbits” columns, and even curates the magazine’s ever-changing dining listings. Heck, he even oversaw the production of this list. If all that epicurean effort doesn’t earn “X” a place in “Memphis Eats A-Z,” we don’t know what should. – Vance Lauderdale

Pool tables, a jukebox, and the largest beer selection in three counties (36 drafts!). Cooper-Young’s anchor, Young Avenue Deli is a comfort zone before you even pick up a menu. But make time for lunch. (Or dinner on a Grizzlies game night, when they light up the big screen.) The Smokin’ Turkey sandwich — smoked turkey, smoked gouda, and barbecue sauce on a pair of English muffins — is the kind of delight that warms even an off night for Ja Morant. Add an order of the sweet potato fries (sprinkled with cinnamon) and your taste buds might forget the dessert menu features which include, yes, a fried Moonpie sundae. – FM

The first time I wandered into Zinnie’s, it was well into the early hours of the morning, and my friend and I were done drinking. We collapsed into a table, looking mighty disheveled and worse for wear, hoping to sober up. The servers continuously brought us waters, chatted, and let us sit there without ordering anything until we were okay to leave. That initial friendly, relaxing experience had me coming back time and time again to the “Best Little Neighborhood Bar in the Universe.” If you want to hang out in a chill environment, throw back a few beers, or munch on some great comfort food (hot wing Mondays!), you can’t beat Zinnie’s. – SXC