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Photography by Justin Fox Burks
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A look at the menu on my first visit to Pontotoc set me up for satisfaction with two simple words: boiled peanuts. For this Southern girl raised in the Mississippi Delta, the presence of these briny bits from heaven took me back to childhood when they were a snacking staple. Breaking into the nuts, simmered in PBR and spices, juicy with just the right amount of crunch — and delivered in a Mason jar — was delightfully nostalgic, predictably messy, and a perfect prelude to the expertly crafted cocktails and decadent dishes to come.
Open since October, the cozy space on a Tuesday night was relaxed and quiet. Beneath the dining room’s centerpiece — a sparkling oversized chandelier — candles flickered next to fresh roses set out in vases. Jazz music played through speakers (live jazz is featured Thursday through Saturday nights).
The vibe at Pontotoc is a change of pace for owner Daniel Masters, who also owns Silly Goose; its location allows the chef and bartenders to get a bit more creative. “Being in an arts district gives you the opportunity to play more,” Masters says. He and partners Jeremy and Matthew Thacker-Rhodes renovated the space, previously a cafe, with a goal to create a food-forward jazz bar.
Chef Chris Eure steers the menu with elevated Southern dishes, inspired by his grandma, with such entrees as Mississippi Pot Roast. The roast cooks low and slow — about 14 hours — with carrots, potatoes, garlic cloves, and pepperoncinis (the latter “is what makes it Mississippi-style,” Eure says), and little discs of jalapeño cornbread, with a hint of sweetness, are perfect for soaking up the jus.
Save room for dessert: the Sister Schubert Beignet. This ice-cream sandwich for adults features two fried dinner rolls with a scoop of perfectly creamy house-made sour cream gelato tucked between. A drizzle of tart blackberry coulis finishes the dish. As the gelato melts and melds with the coulis under the warm fried dough, I dare you not to consider licking the plate.
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Among the appetizers served at Pontotoc are the Chicharone Nachos, freshly fried pork skins topped with chorizo, queso fundido, and a confetti of sweet peppers. The Sister Schubert Beignet melds warm fried dough with creamy cool gelato for a match made in heaven.
Photography by Justin Fox Burks
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Among the appetizers served at Pontotoc are the Chicharone Nachos, freshly fried pork skins topped with chorizo, queso fundido, and a confetti of sweet peppers. The Sister Schubert Beignet melds warm fried dough with creamy cool gelato for a match made in heaven.
Photography by Justin Fox Burks
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Among the appetizers served at Pontotoc are the Chicharone Nachos, freshly fried pork skins topped with chorizo, queso fundido, and a confetti of sweet peppers. The Sister Schubert Beignet melds warm fried dough with creamy cool gelato for a match made in heaven.
Photography by Justin Fox Burks
Pontotoc, 314 S. Main (901-207-7576) $-$$
