photograph by sarah gunter
Alejandro Romero came to Memphis in 2015 to join a cousin in the restaurant business here.
Editor’s Note: Sarah Gunter is a student in Professor Rebecca Finlayson’s Introduction to Journalism course at Rhodes College. The students taking the course spent time this spring researching and writing about Memphis. They are learning the core principles and techniques of journalistic writing while also learning about their local community.
Alejandro Romero, who recently became the sole owner of Sabor Caribe, a restaurant serving traditional Venezuelan food in the Edge District, is grateful to be able to share his food and culture. But pulling in new customers can sometimes be difficult. Romero says, “For the people who have not tried our food, they should give themselves the opportunity to try it, because it’s not Mexican food. A lot of people think Venezuelan food is Mexican food, but South American food is totally different!”
Romero moved from Venezuela to Memphis in 2015, where his cousin and soon-to-be business partner, Cesar Gonzales, owned and operated a food truck. “I came with the dream of establishing my own business,” he says. When he discovered the owners of a local restaurant called Arepa and Salsa that served South American cuisine were planning on selling, he and his cousin made an offer immediately. “They told me they were going to sell, and we bought the restaurant in that moment,” he says. “We opened to the public March 1, 2016.”
Six years later, Sabor Caribe continues to thrive, though the restaurant has faced challenges Romero couldn’t have imagined. In fact, Romera had never worked with food before coming to Memphis. He attended a university in Venezuela and worked as a public accountant up until the move to America. Gonzales, who already had experience in the food business, was the perfect partner. “We embarked on this adventure with the restaurant together,” says Romero.
photograph by sarah gunter
With its bright colors and murals, it's hard to miss Sabor Caribe.
Still, Romero managed to keep on every member of his staff. “We lost absolutely no one,” he says. One of the biggest changes over the years was making it easier for customers to order take-out. To do this, he started using the internet; he set up the restaurant on delivery services like Uber-Eats and worked on establishing a larger presence on social media. (Find the restaurant on Instagram @saborcaribememphis).
Romero is incredibly grateful for his broad customer base, which includes Latin and Hispanic people searching for a taste of home, as well as many other diners who are just now discovering South American food. He credits their loyalty, saying, “Thanks to our customers, we’ve been able to keep our doors open through the pandemic.” Attracting new business can still be difficult, however. Romero explains, “The most complicated thing for us is giving people the opportunity to try new food, because people don’t like to buy food they’ve never tried.”
Those who have not tried Sabor Caribe are missing out. I discovered the restaurant on a search for empanadas, a South American staple, which is a small pie you can eat with your hands. Sabor Caribe offers five varieties: chicken, beef, cheese, bean, and seafood. The first four feature a chewy, corn-flour crust that’s gluten free, while the slightly larger seafood empanada has a flakier, flour crust. All are delicious, especially paired with Sabor Caribe’s signature creamy dipping sauces, which come in cilantro and red pepper.
“We have a wide menu,” Romero says. “We have the arepa, which is practically half of the menu, because in Venezuelan cuisine, the arepa is the most popular dish. We often eat it two times a day and put many different things in it. It’s a sandwich, really, with the flavor depending on what you put inside.” I tried the Pabellón Arepa, Romero’s favorite, and became obsessed after my first bite.
photograph by sarah gunter
The Pabellon Arepa is one of the most popular items on the menu.
The corn-flour pocket (also gluten-free!) stuffed with filling is like the bread of a sandwich, except it has a slightly more dense, chewy texture. The Pabellón Arepa is stuffed with shredded pork, fried plantains, white cheese, and black beans. All the ingredients complement each other and combine to create a meal that’s filling without being overly rich or decadent.
The pair decided to separate in early 2020, and Romero bought Gonzales’ share of the business. About a week later, the Covid-19 pandemic started. Due to complications with buying the business and needing to resubmit the restaurant’s licenses, Romero says he was was ineligible for federal aid. The restaurant, and Romero’s dream, was in a precarious position, but managed to survive.
Past what is (hopefully) the largest hill of the pandemic, Romero is excited about the future. He’s currently working on renewing the restaurant’s liquor license, which will make hosting events at the restaurant easier. Sabor Caribe has a patio and indoor dining area, as well as a room in the back with a karaoke machine that can fit up to 25 people, and a large parking area that can fit just as many cars. The restaurant has also started catering, for those interested in having the restaurant come to them.
Measures like these, as well as word of mouth, are helping Romero continue to grow his business, attract new customers, and achieve his dream. For diners feeling adventurous and looking for food that won’t disappoint, He invites them try something new and delicious at Sabor Caribe.
Sabor Caribe is located at 662 Madison Avenue, 901-425-5889.
Note: All quotes have been translated from Spanish by Ace Cole.
