Photos by Ben Fant
In mid-July, while driving home from dinner at Jack Binion’s Steak House, a magnificent super moon popped through the clouds. Satiated and happy from ripe barrel-fresh wine, sautéed wild mushrooms, and pan-seared
Delmonico with cognac and cabernet cream, the moon seemed like an opulent talisman for the beautifully renovated restaurant located inside Tunica’s Horseshoe Casino.
Although personable photographs on the restaurant walls recognize the restaurant’s founding father, the décor, drinks, and food at Jack Binion’s are new, with an intentional eye for pleasing the ladies. Purse hooks and cell phone chargers are considerate additions to the bar, which is welcoming and sophisticated thanks to the extensive remodel by the Memphis-based Graham Reese Design Group.
All 30 wines also are available by the glass, including six barrel-fresh and eco-friendly choices, and small plates emphasize fresh and bright ingredients, such as a lobster roll with dill crème fraiche, an heirloom tomato salad pictured below, and an enchanting pork belly, brined overnight and stacked with French toast and apple chutney.
More virile appetites, however, won’t be stymied by the restaurant’s
female-friendly vibe. Jack Binion’s still offers premium whiskeys, hearty sides like lobster mac ‘n cheese, and 10 different steak add-ons, including bacon and bleu cheese butter. Plus, the hand-cut steaks include a primal 24-ounce rib eye named Tomahawk served with an impressive bone that curves well beyond the plate.
To be fair, our lavish meal was part of a media rollout, but the muscle behind executive chef Bruce Ford’s menu and the restaurant’s polished service were authentic, and our accolades well-earned. More intuitively, we couldn’t help but appreciate a finely honed steak house that, while updated, still plays America’s classic culinary duet: expertly prepared steaks crusted with salt and rosemary as fragrant as early summer rain.
1021 Casino Center Drive, Robinsonville, Mississippi 38664 (800-303-7463)
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