photograph by michael donahue
Rocky Kasaftes may run the old tavern, but he says, “My dad's name is painted on the front of the place, not mine.”
When I walk into Alex’s Tavern, I’m immediately transported to the 1980s. Alex’s, which is celebrating its 70th birthday this year, was usually the last stop on our nightly string of bar visits when I lived in Midtown. I spent many nights there washing down “Greek Burgers” and potato chips with Heinekens.
I still remember certain customers. Like the retired judge who lived down the street and who sat at the bar in his bathrobe, pajamas, and bedroom slippers.
I still go to Alex’s, but not every night. In many ways, it seems like nothing has changed. Framed photos adorn the walls, from a large portrait of Cybill Shepherd to a collection of Three Stooges photos and a collage that includes Elvis, Humphrey Bogart, and Jayne Mansfield.
Photograph by Michael Donahue
A photo of Alex Kasaftes hangs on the wall between the two jukeboxes.
Also on the wall are yellowing newspaper stories I wrote about Alex’s over the years for the old Memphis Press-Scimitar, The Commercial Appeal, and the Memphis Flyer. Owner Rocky Kasaftes and I go all the way back to 1974 when we were both copy clerks at the Press-Scimitar.
As the wording on the red awning on the front of the building states, the iconic establishment is “Memphis’s Oldest Family Owned Tavern Since 1953!”
A photo of Rocky’s dad, Alex’s Tavern founder Alex Kasaftes (for whom the business is named), hangs on a wall between two jukeboxes. He and his wife, Eugenia, went to nearby Humes High School. After he got back from World War II, Alex worked at Dupont and then drove a beer truck for a while. He originally opened Alex’s two doors down from its current location, but that was only for a month, Rocky says.
His dad, who referred to Alex’s as “just a rustic tavern,” didn’t care if the place was packed or not. He used to say, “It’s not how many people come here. It’s how many people come back.”
Rocky’s mom, Eugenia, cooked “these really great hams” at home and brought them to Alex’s. “Ham sandwiches were a big deal back then,” he says.
photograph by kathy mclallen
Before his dad died, Rocky waited tables at The Pier while finishing his marketing degree from Memphis State University. After his dad’s death in 1978, Rocky and Eugenia took over. The late radio personality, John “Bad Dog” McCormack, also helped out behind the bar and in the kitchen.
Rocky’s mom bought new booths, bar stools, and cleaned out an area to make a kitchen. She used to own the old High Point Grill, where she was famous for her cheeseburgers and chili.
Eugenia worked with Rocky until she began mostly staying at home and doing kitchen prep work, including slicing cheese and tomatoes and forming hamburger patties. She also did the bookkeeping. When she died in 2001, Rocky became the sole owner of Alex’s.
Jukeboxes were always a big part of Alex’s Tavern. I took a date there in the 1970s when Rocky’s dad owned it. I remember the place looking like a classic film noir lounge with Sinatra records playing on the jukebox. No celebrity photos or posters graced the walls then.
“Dad loved his jukebox,” says Rocky. “He had one jukebox that held 80 records. Sinatra, Artie Shaw, Glenn Miller, Tony Bennett. That was his pride and joy.”
Rocky began adding items to the menu. Hot wings were first, followed by ribs. Later on, he came up with a “secret menu,” which wasn’t regular bar food. “Last week, I cooked up shrimp and scallops.”
photograph by michael donahue
Alex’s Tavern received national attention over the years. In 2013, it was featured on the Travel Channel’s Burger Land. Celebrities showed up, among them: Priscilla Presley, Cybill Shepherd, Stella Stevens, Don Henley, Tim McCarver, Joe Walsh, Christina Ricci, and Belinda Carlisle.
Rocky didn’t recognize Greg Allman when he came in late one night. He wanted a beer, but it was after hours. When he told Rocky who he was, Rocky responded, “Well, if you’re Greg Allman, then I’m ‘Sam Malone’ from Cheers.”
Most of those faces from the bygone days at Alex’s are now gone. Legendary cook/bartender Sonny Wilson is dead, but a photo of Alex and Eugenia Kasaftes faces Rocky every time he’s cooking in the tiny kitchen. In a way, his parents are still regulars at Alex’s Tavern.
“My dad’s name is still painted in that window,” says Rocky. “It’s still Alex’s. It’s not about me.”
Alex’s Tavern is at 1445 Jackson Avenue.
