A Dram of Whiskey — and the Old World

Bog & Barley conjures an Irish idyll in East Memphis.

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Fans of Irish cuisine: The wait is over. DJ and Jamie Naylor, the proprietors of popular Cooper-Young bar Celtic Crossing, built up Memphians’ anticipation for the opening of Bog & Barley, the Naylors’ new gathering spot in The Regalia shopping center. But the Naylors didn’t simply settle for an elevated take on Celtic Crossing. Instead, the restaurateurs blew away any and all expectations with an interior crafted from imported Irish wares and a menu featuring authentic Irish cuisine with a few modern twists.

For DJ Naylor, this was the chance to do something completely fresh while remaining true to his Irish roots (he hails from Ballina, a town in County Mayo). “From day one, we knew this was always going to be something different,” says Naylor. “Celtic [Crossing] is the local neighborhood pub in Midtown, and it has its own special place there. Over here, we’re far enough away where we won’t do any harm to that business, and Bog & Barley really fits here. It’s a different demographic, ZIP code, price point, everything.”

This summer’s trans-Atlantic flight costs are steep, and passport processing times are slow. But Memphians can take a short visit to the Emerald Isle without leaving city limits.

The most eye-catching difference is the vast interior (the whole space is more than 7,000 square feet), which was designed by Dublin design firm O Donnell O Neill Design, and filled with custom millwork from another Dublin-based company, I-Con Windows and Joinery. Meanwhile, Northern Ireland pub furniture manufacturer Derry’s supplied all the furniture for Bog & Barley. “Some folks were certainly skeptical that we could pull this off,” laughs Naylor, “working with people overseas over Zoom and coordinating all this. But we really wanted to build something from scratch.”

Everywhere you look, it’s Irish design and memorabilia. A large, enclosed patio entrance welcomes diners into the restaurant, with several pieces of Irish artwork adorning the walls, including a large mural sourced from an old school building. And the patio fireplace is made with “turf,” or peat. “There’s a phrase in Ireland, ‘Bringing home the turf,’ which means making your home or house here,” says Naylor, “We’re providing a little slice of Ireland, my home, here. People can also go over and touch the turf by the fireplace.”

I sat on the patio to sample the fare. I started with the fish dip, a pile of soft smoked cod — blended with a kick of horseradish and freshened by frisée —that I scooped into fresh, house-made potato chips and downed with gusto. To craft the menu, Naylor brought in Reny Alfonso, who works as director of operations for both Celtic Crossing and now Bog & Barley. Alfonso honed his skills in Florida and New York City, while Memphians may remember his multi-year stint as executive chef at the Peabody’s Chez Philippe. In his eyes, the Bog & Barley experience doubles as both a destination dinner and an approachable afternoon spot. “My big push has been to focus on the quality of the food,” says Alfonso, “and work the line where we take ideas from both an Irish pub and also more of an upscale bistro, and I think we’re doing both things very well.”

According to Naylor and Alfonso, defining ‘Irish cuisine’ can be tricky, thanks to some Americans’ misleading perceptions of Irish food. “I feel like some people visited Ireland 20 years ago and that’s their idea of what to expect,” says Naylor, “but things have changed a lot.”

“People attribute corned beef as something that’s purely Irish, but they don’t even really touch that over there,” adds Alfonso. “In our kitchen, you’ll see more French techniques; you’ll see regional influences that add to a dish, but in a way that respects the essence of the original recipe.” On Bog & Barley’s menu, there will be two distinct themes, the first of which is traditional Irish fare, or the “stuff that we don’t mess with,” says Alfonso. Keeping in the spirit of the restaurant, I knew I had to order the bangers and mash, a traditional dish made popular due to its accessibility. The soft bed of mashed potatoes is blanketed with savory caramelized onion gravy, harking back to indulgent American Thanksgiving spreads. The pork sausages are firm, soft, and juicy, a clearly fresh and high quality blend that Alfonso credits to his supplier, Newman Farms.

Meanwhile, the fish and chips have proven to be a big hit, with the restaurant serving an average of 1,000 pounds of cod each week. Alongside my entree, I enjoyed a pint of Auld Bog, a stout from Memphis brewery Soul & Spirits served exclusively at Bog & Barley. Naylor describes the brew as a lighter alternative to Guinness, and one that goes well with many of their dishes. A cool feature of the tap beers is a “print” behind the bar that can stamp images on the foamy head. It’s beer’s answer to latte art. My pint had the Bog & Barley logo imprinted on the head. I’m not quite sure how the magic works, but it’s a fun embellishment.

Beyond traditional dishes, Alfonso is putting out plenty of his own takes on Irish styles. The beet-cured salmon (served with hard-boiled eggs, capers, pickled red onion, and olive oil) is one of his favorites, while he also points to the restaurant’s oyster program as a good option for curious diners. Something unexpected that caught my eye was the charred cabbage steak. “When I first saw that on a menu during my Ireland visit, I thought ‘who wants to order that?’,” Alfonso laughs. “But it ended up being one of the best things I ate. When we make it, it’s very buttery, it gets compressed and we give it that char. I’ll recommend it to anyone.

“A big part of Irish cuisine is using what’s available, what’s seasonal, what’s fresh,” Alfonso goes on. He adds that at a lot of restaurants in Ireland, people generally know where each ingredient comes from, and the quality of ingredients is often higher. And the restaurant is looking to source even more ingredients from Ireland as they refine the menu.

When venturing inside Bog & Barley, marvel at the more than 400 pieces of custom millwork that were assembled in Dublin, deconstructed, shipped to Memphis, and reassembled to create the 24-foot-long bar that stretches throughout the ground floor of the restaurant, illuminated by the gleaming golden hues of small chandeliers. There are a few private “snugs” that can provide a more intimate dining experience, while a small stage in the center of the ground floor will play host to both live music nights and other entertainment, like comedians.

Upstairs, there are a few more dining tables along with a separate bar. The memorabilia, the book-lined walls, and the expanse of woodwork stretching up into the rafters all reinforce the scope of this project. Contrasted with the excited chatter of diners and drinkers, the interior almost feels like that of a grand, old-world library.

But instead, consider this a grand archive for whiskey, a topic about which Naylor is very enthusiastic. The upstairs bar is dedicated to whiskey enthusiasts, and Bog & Barley’s expansive program includes hundreds of varieties from around the world, and even a few made here in Memphis. “At this location, we’re focusing on a premium selection of whiskeys, but you’ll actually see less of a focus on Ireland and Scotland,” says Naylor. “We’re in bourbon country, so we have 102 varieties from bourbon country, 23 from Ireland, 29 from Scotland, and then eight from around the world including Japan, France, and Taiwan. We want you to feel like you’re on a bit of a whiskey trip while you’re here.” For those eager to sample a larger selection, Naylor has curated eight signature whiskey flights that provide a comprehensive look at the restaurant’s selection.

There’s much to experience at Bog & Barley, from the food, to the whiskey, to the design. This summer’s trans-Atlantic flight costs are steep, and passport processing times are slow. But Memphians can take a short visit to the Emerald Isle without leaving city limits.

Bog & Barley is open for lunch and dinner Monday – Saturday, 11 a.m. – 11 p.m., at 6150 Poplar Ave., Suite 124, in The Regalia shopping center.