Justin Fox Burks
Photographs by Justin Fox Burks
A certain special feeling permeates the beginning of every dining experience I have at Bhan Thai: There’s a welcoming, comfortable vibe that never seems to waver, paired with a lovely anticipation for the amazing Thai flavors present in course after imaginative course. The restaurant’s name simply means “Thai house,” and it’s a place I’ve been going back to over the years to celebrate birthdays and hard-fought accomplishments.
I recently revisited this converted Central Gardens home that started out years ago as the famed Raji restaurant, and I was thrilled to have a reason to try dishes that were new to me while also savoring some old favorites.
First off, any place that serves good spring rolls is automatically in my rotation, and at dinner Saturday night, one order was plenty for our table of three. The spring roll wrappers were starchy like phyllo dough, and the rolls reminded us of a tiny, hearty Thai burrito. A classic Thai peanut sauce and a honey-mustard sauce were drizzled on top.
My cup of Tum Kha soup was surprisingly light and delicately flavorful. The coconut milk base featured a lemongrass chicken stock, and the soup included thinly sliced mushrooms, green onions, and at my request, whole shrimp. We marveled at the generous portion of chicken in our order of satay and the well-balanced peanut sauce that accompanied it. One of my dining companions selected the Bhan Thai salad as a starter, a big salad with plenty of protein, crispy tofu, hard-boiled eggs, and peanut sauce.
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Spring Rolls
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Spicy Old Man
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Chicken Satay
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Thai Jito & Molly’s Margarita
For his entrée, the vegetarian at our table chose the Spicy Old Man with Asian eggplant, tofu, basil, and a thick, savory “secret” sauce. He had no problem finding plenty to choose from on the menu since the choice of tofu, chicken, beef, pork, or shrimp is available for most dishes. I went with the specialty that I can’t ever get enough of: green curry with vegetables and bamboo shoots over rice. The kicker to this dish is the sneaky sweetness and spiciness of the sauce. First, basil hits the nose; Thai chili comes next; and coconut sauce cools at the end.
Our third companion opted for a meatier treat, Eight Angels — a cast of shrimp, chicken, pork, beef, shiitake mushrooms, asparagus, carrots, and baby corn — from the house specialties section of the menu. Not a fan of spicy food, she was relieved to find the brown sauce to be mild, just as described.
For dessert, the sticky rice custard, the most traditional Thai offering, stood out. The custard on top of the dish was sweet enough to qualify as a dessert, but its pressed rice and topping of black sesame seeds gave it a savory edge.
Service at Bhan Thai was focused and brisk but still personable on this busy Saturday night. Our server thoroughly answered our questions and recommended her favorite cocktails. Two members of the group tried the Thai Jito, a mojito with basil replacing the mint, and Molly’s Margarita, while I opted for an $8 sake.
At Friday lunch a few weeks later, Bhan Thai was packed, but service remained friendly and solicitous. On weekdays, entrées are served with the chef’s choice of soup, and lunch menu dishes are all around $9.
We shared small egg rolls packed with cabbage, carrots, and onion and served alongside a clear, vinegary, peppery sauce and then, between sips of hot tea for me and Singha beer for my companion, we feasted. First up was spicy Thai fried rice with tofu, egg, and vegetables, among the best fried rice dishes we’ve had anywhere thanks to fluffy rice, many large slices of fried tofu and egg, and its generous portion. Earlier, a friend who’s moved to Portland had reminisced about the restaurant’s chicken massaman, which was served with potatoes and cashews in a creamy red curry. The menu notes that traditionally, chicken massaman was served to celebrate entry into monkhood, and the dish definitely lives up to such expectations. Our pad Thai, pricier than the regular lunch menu items, was also a hit with perfectly cooked noodles and a balance of sweet and sour.
For dessert, we were among the first to try a new menu item: a slice of marbleized green tea cheesecake with caramel sauce polka-dotting the plate. I knew that instead of more typical desserts, I wanted another Thai-style dessert like the impressive sticky rice custard we’d all loved at dinner. While cheesecake’s existence owes more to Greeks, Romans, and Europeans, the addition of green tea was enough of a nod to Asian cuisine for me.
Delving deeper into the Asian flavors highlighted at Bhan Thai — the perennial winner for Best Thai food in Memphis reader restaurant polls — was more than worthwhile, and owner Molly Smith and Chef Sorrasit “Alex” Sittranont’s dedication and vision were palpable. If you haven’t been in a little while, or if this spot is new to you, I recommend stopping by soon for an excellent meal created by folks who are at the top of their game.
Bhan Thai
1324 Peabody Ave.
(901) 272-1538
4 Stars
Food: Traditional Thai favorites expertly prepared, with dishes on the full spectrum of mild to spicy.
Drinks: Full wine list, specialty cocktails with standout interpretations of the traditional mojito (with basil) and margarita, beer, and a small selection of sake.
Atmosphere: Raucous and upbeat with a mix of celebrations and date nights in different rooms of an American four-square house built in the early 1900s.
Service: Servers are personable, knowledgeable, and committed to getting the details right.
Extras: A side patio, expanded deck, and bar at the back of the restaurant offer outdoor seating. A special event space also is located next door.
Reservations: Recommended, especially on weekend nights or for large parties.
Prices: Starters: $4.50-$11; Soups and salads: $3.50-$11; Dinner entrées: $13-$25; Lunch menu entrées: $9-$10; Desserts: $6
Open: Dinner Sunday-Thursday from 5 p.m. to 9:30 p.m. and on Friday and Saturday from 5 p.m. to 10:30 p.m.; Lunch Tuesday-Friday, 11 a.m. to 2 p.m. Closed on Monday.
Amy’s Pics: Three to Try
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GREEN CURRY
Served over rice, the bamboo shoots and beautifully cut vegetables come in a spicy, lightly sweet curry sauce accented with fresh basil.
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TUM KHA SOUP
Light and flavorful with coconut and lemongrass notes, this soup is the ideal kick-off to a meal with powerful flavors. Thinly sliced mushrooms and green onions complement the broth. Add shrimp!
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STICKY RICE CUSTARD
Everyone at the table raved about this inventive square of Thai-style rice pudding, a not-too-sweet dessert bordering on savory.
