Photo: Kim Thomas
World-renowned fashion designer Nicole Miller was in town for the sixth annual Memphis Fashion Week, where her spring line walked the runway at the Crosstown Concourse on Friday night, April 7th. Earlier that day, she had been the guest of honor at a luncheon held at The Hunt & Polo Club to benefit the Memphis Fashion Fund. I was lucky enough to catch up with her there for an interview.
Nicole Miller is herself a timeless classic, with signature long red hair and porcelain skin and armed with a killer sense of style. She is witty, brilliant, and always looking for what’s next that will infuse her line with unique influences. She counts among her clients a lengthy list of celebrities (among them Eva Longoria, Susan Sarandon, Beyoncé, and Sheryl Crow) and her collections are known for their unparalleled fit, excellent construction, and singular use of textiles, pattern, and advanced fabric technology.
“The best-dressed girls here in town were the ones that worked at the Nicole Miller boutique.” Those words came straight from Memphis Fashion Week board member Tate Wilson as she greeted me just a few minutes before I was scheduled to sit down with the designer for this interview. Ironically, I had worked there in the 1990s, with a fantastic crew of young women who had the opportunity to travel to New York City for fashion shows in Bryant Park and attend buying meetings in the designer’s showroom. Those days represent the beginning of my career in fashion. So this opportunity of interviewing the woman whom I once worked for was very special indeed.
I know that you have been to Memphis several times. What do you particularly like about this town?
Well, one thing is that I am a foodie, and Memphis certainly has great food. On past visits, Emily Williams Dunn (owner of former Memphis and Birmingham boutiques) would host great dinner parties for me. On this trip, I went to Catherine & Mary’s, Gus’s Fried Chicken, and Brother Juniper’s and ended up at Raiford’s for dancing. I’ve also been a guest at past Blues Balls and donated guitars with my designs for the auctions.
These days you seem to be attending a handful of these smaller-market Fashion Week events. What’s the appeal for you?
Yes, I am very busy because I think it is important to get out there and promote my collections across the country. This spring has been especially hectic since I have just visited Ft. Lauderdale and am heading from here to Los Angeles and then Dallas. It’s great for me to be out there regionally where I believe people can often be more receptive and welcoming. Traveling also gives me some downtime to enjoy Instagram, catch up on shows like Girls, and do some reading.
What’s the biggest selling item in your line right now?
We are still huge in cocktail dresses because of the precise fit. But, interestingly, we’ve developed a big following in blouses this year. The one thing we don’t do any more is bridesmaid dresses. We are very good at creating fashions that people will want to hang onto and will become collector’s items down the road. For instance, this year for the spring 2017 line, it’s a Panamanian theme inspired by vintage molas — the embroidered textiles — worn by the tribal Kuna women.
Fashion has undergone so much change, and there is the constant question of “retail vs. online” buying. Where do you stand?
Everyone’s business model is different. I feel like boutiques are still going to be very strong because people like to shop in them for their personal service and to be able to try clothing on, feel the textiles, and see the sewing details. I do buy things online, especially shoes, like my Kenzo boots I’m wearing. For me, the fit never changes.
Tell me about your designers.
I design myself, but of course I have assistants. Having young people around me keeps the brand fresh, and I like my clothes to have a youthful edge.
I really love the skull pieces of jewelry that you are wearing, and your skirt is fantastic.
Well, the skull jewelry is from different artists. Some pieces I have bought and others I have been gifted. I really like Jade Jagger’s work and jewelry by London’s The Great Frog. This skirt is from my collection, and it’s a cotton metallic that really goes with anything. It fits well, makes a woman look slimmer instantly, and is very comfortable. I wear it a lot.
What’s coming up next for your line?
My pre-fall and fall/winter 2017 collections taken together tell a story, which is something I really like to do. The former collection is inspired by New York City’s St. Mark’s Place and the latter is “gypsy grunge,” influenced by tarot cards and fortune-telling.
You can follow Nicole Miller on Instagram @nicolemillernyc and purchase her clothing locally at Kittie Kyle at Chickasaw Oaks Village.
