Expansive views of Mobile Bay await poolside.
Photographs by Jane Schneider
March sits poised on the cusp of spring, teasing with balmy temperatures one week and freeze warnings the next. No wonder you’re anxious to escape winter’s grasp. But no worries, we’ve found the perfect anecdote: a spa retreat. Relax and refresh are the watchwords here. Whether you seek to energize with urban life or idle by the water, these tempting spa destinations will make you forget all about old man winter — just in time for spring.
Water Delight
The Grand Hotel Golf Resort & Spa — Point Clear, Alabama
Begin unwinding with a drive to the Gulf Coast. As Mobile’s skyline steadily recedes, you’re soon treated to sweeping views of Mobile Bay. From I-10, turn south onto U.S. Highway 98, where the route begins its lazy descent into the Florida panhandle. You’ll pass the towns of Daphne and Fairhope, then join scenic Alt. 98 to Point Clear, Alabama. Here, the road parallels the shoreline, passing under gracious arbors of live oak as the water shimmers like diamonds in the sunlight.
Before the route will surely peter out, you turn into the lush surrounds of the Grand Hotel Golf Resort & Spa. This 550-acre resort property is perfectly situated on a picturesque point that offers commanding views of the bay, with Mobile a cloudy dot on the horizon. Equally memorable are the elegant live oaks, scattered about the resort like massive umbrellas, providing sanctuary to shore and song birds alike.
Refresh in the whirlpool at the Grand Spa’s relaxation room.
The Grand has been hosting guests since 1847, weathering hurricanes and fires as well as serving as a military hospital for wounded Confederate soldiers during the Civil War. As I make my way to the lobby one afternoon in mid-December, I’m struck by the quiet solitude and gracious surroundings. The waterfront, in concert with the beautiful landscaping, makes the Grand a relaxing getaway.
The Grand is one of six resorts along Alabama’s Robert Trent Jones Golf Trail that feature luxury spa facilities. (Ask for the RTJ Spa Trail Card and receive service discounts at each location.) The Grand is also part of Marriott’s Autograph Collection brand, a prestigious group of 100 independently owned and operated properties worldwide.
The resort recently completed a $32 million renovation, refurbishing the handsome, octagonal lobby that dates to the 1940s and all 405 guest rooms, including the spa building where I stay. My generous room, which boasts a balcony overlooking the marina, is freshly decorated in shades of periwinkle blue with a dreamy king bed worthy of a Netflix binge-fest.
But there’s too much to do here to justify lounging. As I walk the trail along the shoreline, I spy several sand beaches perfect for young children, a sprawling pool area, golf and tennis courts, even bikes for riding within the resort or to the charming neighboring town of Fairhope, if you feel ambitious.
Had the weather been warmer, I would have explored the bay via a resort kayak. But I’m here for relaxation, so I head to the spa to try their Bayshore salt scrub. A full-service spa, you’ll find hair and nail services as well as a full complement of massage and body treatments. With 12 treatment rooms, a grotto-like relaxation room decorated with Roman-like tile mosaics, and a soaking hot tub, the effect is transportive.
The salt scrub is provided by my massage therapist, Jenny, who’s been working at the resort for more than a decade. Several of her regulars are locals in their 70s and 80s. “Some clients brighten my day as much as I do theirs,” she says graciously. One Birmingham couple even plan their bi-annual visits around Jenny’s schedule. How’s that for devotion? As she gets to her work, I understand why; Jenny’s hands are sure and strong. The salt rub feels itchy at first, then soothing. Between the pulse of the massage and the gentle scent of eucalyptus oil, my tension begins to ebb.
“How does that feel?” she asks midway through our session, wrapping me in a sort of Saran wrap envelope that stimulates circulation while drawing out impurities. “Mrfssict,” I mumble, feeling a bit like Saturday-night leftovers. But then lying completely still in the wrap for 20 minutes feels rather zen. The result? My skin is silky smooth to the touch.
The Grand Hotel spa features an array of treatments, from Swedish and aromatic warm-stone massages to cupping therapy, good for breaking up scar tissue and waking up the lymphatic system. Most popular is the HydraFacial, in which an esthetician wands the face, gently exfoliating the skin while hydrating with antioxidants. In just an hour, you leave with a dewy, youthful glow. Who can resist?
Taylor Fields, corporate director of spas for the RTJ Resort Collection, tells me the spa industry continues its robust growth, having surpassed $17.2 billion in revenue in 2017, according to the International Spa Association. “One facet of the industry is still focused on pampering, but there’s an intentional movement towards health and wellness,” Fields says.
A former yoga studio with a bay view now serves as a station for mani-pedis and other salon offerings.
If wellness means taking a bit of “me” time for a massage or facial, then do it. Spa customers can enjoy the Grecian-style relaxation room after their appointment, but I opt to melt in front of the marina instead. Sitting on the large extended patio, I find the tranquil view of sea and sky mesmerizing. After an extended moment of bliss, I leave to dress for dinner.
The handsome octagonal lobby of the Grand Hotel, often referred to as the “birthday cake” building, dates to the 1940s.
The Grand has several restaurant options (most with gorgeous water views), but the upscale Southern Oaks best reflects the bayside locale. Seasonal menus feature locally sourced, farm-to-table fare, and among my favorites are the pan-seared scallops and chargrilled Oysters Grandfeller. Braised with greens and flavored with a Cajun hollandaise sauce peppered with smoky bacon bits from Bill-E’s Small Batch Bacon, these are some lucky little mollusks. A shout-out to William “Bill E” Stitt, a talented grower in Baldwin County who knows his way around salt-cured pork. His bacon is simply divine. Save room for dessert, too, as the bread pudding with whiskey sauce is scrumptious. Neither overly soggy nor cloyingly sweet, it’s a heavenly end to a stay at the Grand.
Urban Renewal
Omni Nashville’s Mokara Spa — Nashville, Tennessee
Downtown’s Omni Hotel Nashville is just steps away from the Country Music Hall of Fame and Museum and other popular attractions.
If catching an urban buzz is more your style, then make the drive to Nashville and visit the handsome Omni Nashville Hotel, where Mokara Salon and Spa awaits. Adjacent to downtown’s Music City Center, Nashville’s stylish convention complex, the Omni sports a classy corporate attitude. The cavernous lobby is done in rich earth tones, with clubby living room nooks, beautiful stone appointments, and contemporary light fixtures. The Omni’s central location puts you in the heart of downtown’s SoBro district and within easy walking distance to tony eateries, Broadway’s honkytonks, and other attractions, including the adjoining Country Music Hall of Fame and Museum. The hotel also offers a free, three-mile-radius shuttle service so you can whisk to the restaurants and breweries that dot the hip East Nashville and Five Points neighborhoods.
The writer at work in Mokara’s elegant relaxation room.
After settling into my king suite, which includes an elegant living space, dining table for eight, and bar — not to mention a spacious bathroom — I admire Nashville’s lights from my 12th-floor aerie. King suites can also connect to a second room, enabling a party of six to sleep comfortably and entertain. (If you have allergy concerns, stay on the hotel’s 18th floor, where feathers pillows are verboten.)
Eager for my appointment, I zip down to the fourth floor where Mokara’s delicate fragrance beckons before I even enter. An attractive seating area boasts downtown views as well as an adjoining outdoor terrace. Mokara opened five years ago, offering its elegant, New Age vibe to an eager clientele and becoming downtown Nashville’s first full-service spa.
The Johnny Cash Room at the Musicians Hall of Fame and Museum traces the country star’s illustrious career.
The interior lounge, done in soothing shades of taupe and sage green, is well-appointed with lotions, plush bathrobes, and beautiful orchids. The relaxation room is decorated with pastoral landscapes and provides a nice selection of teas and granola for snacking. In addition to 12 treatment stations, you’ll find a steam room and sauna.
The spa offers the latest in body, face, and hair care, like the new activated hemp massage with oils by Mary’s Medicinals of Colorado. CDB oil is reportedly good for easing achy muscles and inflammation. Couple’s side-by-side massages are popular as well. Since I’m feeling a bit tight, I opt for their signature Swedish massage by my therapist, Yolanda, who’s been with the company since Mokara opened. Her gentle demeanor belies her fabulous talent as a masseuse and I secretly scheme, trying to figure out how to woo her to Memphis. When I awaken, I thank her and waft to the relaxation room where a flute of champagne weakens what little resolve I have left.
The good news is you don’t have to be a hotel guest to take advantage of Mokara’s services. Parking is complimentary to spa customers, and other amenities include the use of the hotel’s well-equipped fitness center and sexy rooftop pool. For bachelorette parties — and Nashville is a hot spot for these — the attractive spa terrace is perfect for social gatherings.
When morning rolls around, don’t miss Omni’s Kitchen Notes restaurant. Their breakfast buffet has a tasty array of fruits, pastries, and egg dishes as well as ample vegetarian and gluten-free options.
While in Nashville, I make a point to visit the newly reopened Tennessee State Museum, now located in Centennial Park across from the Farmers Market. It is free and though a bit stark (during my December visit displays were still being installed), it tells Tennessee’s compelling history with interesting artifacts — a lock of Andrew Jackson’s white mane, for example (who knew?) — pioneer furnishings, and an impressive display of artwork.
While I always enjoy a visit to the Country Music Hall of Fame, an interesting counterpoint is the Musicians Hall of Fame and Museum, which tells behind-the-scenes stories of the many musicians, producers, and song-writers who helped to create the songs that made the stars famous. Memphis is well represented here, with sizable displays celebrating Stax, Sun Studios, and much more. Nashville might call itself Music City, but we all know Memphis is the legitimate birthplace of rock-and-roll. All in all, not a bad takeaway from a relaxing escape.
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