illustration by Mosterpiece / DREAMSTIME
Ahh, the dog days of summer. When lounging outdoors in the season’s fading light can feel oh, so restorative — at least for the soul. But while the body is busy producing melanin to give skin that healthy glow, there’s more at work than meets the eye. As time slips by, daily sun exposure to ultraviolet (UV) rays can gradually lead to skin damage and its tell-tale signs: fine lines, uneven pigmentation, even crepey, leathery skin. Mon dieu!
However, there is hope — and help. We spoke with several Memphis medical aestheticians and business owners about how to treat your skin to reduce the effects of sun damage and protect it going forward. Find a licensed, experienced provider when seeking skin care treatment.
Where to Begin
Your consultation will begin with a discussion with your aesthetician about what you hope to achieve with your treatments. Pointing out problem areas like fine lines, wrinkles or uneven skin tones will lead to a skin analysis and review of treatments best suited for your skin type. Procedures range from hydrating and anti-aging facials to lasers, peels, or micro-needling, depending upon the level of assistance you seek. Options may include:
Hydrating and reparative facials. These procedures offer a gentle way to brighten your skin while giving it a boost of hydration. Reparative facials often include ingredients like hyaluronic acid (to lighten) or collagen (to plump skin) and toning devices. Botox is another go-to. The injection of Botox temporarily freezes muscles at the site, be it in the forehead or between the brows, where unwelcome worry lines emerge. This brings relief by stopping lines from deepening, says Brandi Fly with Smiley Aesthetics Medical Spa in Collierville. Fillers such as Juvederm are another way of temporarily reducing wrinkles.
Chemical peels. Fly also recommends trying a chemical peel, which rubs away the top layer of sun-damaged skin. This dermabrasion stimulates collagen production, which helps to regenerate new skin.
Laser resurfacing and micro-needling. Treatments such as laser resurfacing and micro-needling, which punctures the skin to facilitate the production of collagen, address sun damage. A further step is regenerative micro-needling, explains nurse practitioner Renee Pinlac, owner of De La Belle Wellness and Spa: “Regenerative micro-needling is good for breaking up sun damage that’s created red or brown patches. Your platelet rich plasma is full of exosomes and antioxidants,” which are infused into the face.
Exosomes are tiny messenger molecules that carry genetic material, lipids, and proteins through the body. Antioxidants protect the skin and exosomes help to speed up healing time. “Micro-needling with heat-based radio frequency can see deeper wrinkle results,” she says. Such procedures are typically done in three sessions over several months.
Non-ablative laser rejuvenation. Dark spots and redness can be lightened with non-ablative lasers. The heat generated by the laser promotes collagen production. This also works well for targeting wrinkles. Intense pulse light (IPL) laser treatments can be effective as well, though may not be safe for all skin types, says Lisa Street, owner of Glo Medical Aesthetics. Ask your aesthetician about the best treatment for your skin tone and texture. “Darker skin types, as well as tanned/post sun exposure skin, are more susceptible to burns if proper techniques and protocols are not followed,” says Street.
The Effects of Aging
Did you know our skin gradually changes as we age? The body’s production of estrogen slowly begins to decline in midlife, and continues declining as we move towards menopause. That change may be reflected in the skin, says Pinlac, making it drier, thinner, and for some, hyper-pigmented over time. Hydration, good nutrition and exercise are among the key ingredients to keeping skin healthy.
“It can be a journey to find an aesthetician who knows what your skin needs,” says Pinlac. “It’s not just about using sunscreen but what you do on a daily basis that matters.”
Protect Your Skin
How do you cleanse off your makeup? Are you still using that moisturizer you loved in college? Time for a refresh. Several products can help keep your skin appear more vibrant and retinol is one. “Retinoids speed up cell turnover,” says Fly. Retinol, combined with vitamin C, unites two strong antioxidants that give a one-two punch to free radicals, those pesky molecules your body produces that, when exposed to UV light, can cause skin damage.
Try applying a vitamin C serum in the morning and a hydrating, retinol-based cream at night, suggests Fly. By using these two products every day, you can improve the overall appearance of your skin and ward off visible signs of aging.
Sunscreen, of course, is always a must. Apply it daily. Whether sunny or overcast, you want your skin protected from UV rays.
“We need sunshine and vitamin D,” notes Street. “But we also need to protect our skin from burning.”
Street’s go-to is medical grade sunscreen with zinc oxide and a blend of ingredients that “provide added skin care benefits, like antioxidants or anti-aging compounds.” Why a medical-grade sunblock? “Because these penetrate the skin, which makes the product stronger and more effective,” says Street,
What’s more, medical-grade products are approved by the Food and Drug Administration (FDA), meaning they go through rigorous testing and have a higher concentration of active ingredients than similar items bought over the counter. Be advised that these products must be prescribed by a physician. However, medical spas do have physicians who sign off on patient charts. The costs of medical-grade products are comparable to those purchased at your local pharmacy. Speak to your aesthetician to learn more.
Don’t forget that sunscreen can expire. The FDA’s website advises against using sunscreen that is old and past its expiration date. If you don’t remember which summer you purchased that lotion, toss it and buy fresh. Most sunscreens remain effective for up to three years, but consult the label.
Higher Elevations, More UV Rays
When traveling to the mountain states, be aware that the sun’s intensity is greater when you reach elevations of 5,000 feet and above. If you’re going skiing, snowboarding, or hanging lakeside, you’ll get a bigger dose of UV rays due to the thinner air and reflective nature of snow and water.
When active, it’s best to use a broad-spectrum sunscreen with an SPF of 30 or higher, reapplying every two hours throughout the day. Don’t forget to lather up ears, beneath the chin and the nape of the neck, too. Sunscreen with lanolin or glycerin will ease skin dryness. And a brimmed hat, along with long sleeves, gives an additional layer of protection.
It’s never too late to keep sun damage at bay — start today with sunscreen.
Go-To Products
Our aestheticians give a thumbs-up to these medical-grade skincare products:
ALPHARET OVERNIGHT CREAM BY SKINBETTER SCIENCE
Retinoid + glycolic acid and tretinoin PROS: Improves fine lines, brightens skin, activates collagen stimulation CONS: May take 6 weeks before improvements become noticeable
SUNBETTER TONE SMART SPF 68 SUNSCREEN COMPACT - UVA/UVB
PROS: Can be used in place of light coverage foundation, crucial for preventing new damage
CONS: May not match every skin tone, heavy consistency
