Hot Chicken, Surf and Turf, and Dumplings from Nepal.
While we are fraught with contention on many fronts, food lovers in Memphis can at least agree on this: We have plenty of new options for eating out. Our annual restaurant poll included 19 new restaurants with a head-spinning array of menus for casual dishes, shared plates, and more elaborate entrees layered with flavorful ingredients.
Click here to see the results of our Readers' Restaurant Poll.
For their top three choices, Memphis magazine readers — more than a thousand of you — selected sophisticated restaurants with higher-priced food, but more casual restaurants filled out the rest of the Top-10 list. Breakfast? Let the Sunrise. Burgers? Hey, Hopdoddy! Fried chicken? Hello, Hattie B’s. A bookish lunch? Smart thinking, Libro at Laurelwood.
Continued development at Crosstown Concourse, the renovated Sears building on North Watkins, also played a big part. Saucy Chicken, Global Café, and the Café at Crosstown Arts opened in time for our annual restaurant poll. Since then, other new restaurants are up and running, and their popularity promises a delicious new year.
At Crosstown, there’s a fourth new restaurant — Elemento Neapolitan Pizza — and downtown, Hu Hotel, formerly the Madison Hotel, has launched an upscale diner and renovated its rooftop space for year-round food and drinks. In Collierville, Raven & Lily’s, Zopita’s on the Square, and P.O. Press Public House and Provisions are reenergizing the town’s historic town square. And in East Memphis, Chef Judd Grisanti carries on his father’s legacy at the new Ronnie Grisanti’s Italian Restaurant in the Regalia Shopping Center. Look for a Dining Out review on the new Grisanti’s next month.
The Gray Canary
Along with innovative and exceptionally good food, standout service defines the restaurants from celebratory chefs Andrew Ticer and Michael Hudman. The Gray Canary, the duo’s classy contribution to the city’s downtown restaurant scene, falls right in line, especially on a Sunday evening when we order the restaurant’s crab claws and follow the advice of our server, Ro. “The crab claws are really ‘sopable,’ so you also might want to order Parker rolls,” she says. We laugh and agree that her word is perfect, just like the crab claws afloat in lemon butter sauce with basil and celery slices.
Open since last February, The Gray Canary brings wood-fire cooking to Memphis with food and cocktails touched in some way by smoke, char, or ash. For Sunday-night dinner — the restaurant’s alternative to weekend brunch — we follow our appetizers with a compatible trio of shared plates: beets tumbled into pistachio puree; confit sweet potatoes sliced, grilled, and topped with pecans and chorizo coulis; and a 16-ounce pork chop plated with chanterelles, green apples, and a lovely pan sauce made with whey.
Like the restaurant’s menu, The Gray Canary’s industrial chic design is distinctive and multipurpose. Order seasonal cocktails and freshly shucked oysters from three coasts in the lounge. Or linger in the dining room, where large factory windows frame the syncopated light show dancing across the Hernando DeSoto Bridge.
— Pamela Denney
301 S. Front St. (901-249-2932) $$-$$$. Open for happy hour (4 p.m.) and dinner (5 p.m.) Tuesday through Saturday and for Sunday supper 3 to 9 p.m.
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Shared plates build around seasonal produce and hearty proteins, like the restaurant’s thick-cut pork chop with apples and chanterelles.
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Executive Chef de Cuisine Ryan Jenniges plates dishes prepared in The Gray Canary’s wood-fire kitchen, the inspiration for the restaurant’s food and cocktail menus.
117 Prime
When I think of a steakhouse, I think of dark-brown walls, black leather booths, and lights turned down low. Well, 117 Prime doesn’t look like my preconceptions. It’s bright and upbeat with a mishmash of pretty gilded mirrors on white walls.
I visited the restaurant recently with my sister and her husband to celebrate his birthday. Referring to his 16-ounce prime ribeye, my brother-in-law repeatedly said, “I can cut this with a feather!” I ordered the tasty 14-ounce prime New York strip, which I topped with Oscar sauce, a concoction made with crabmeat, asparagus, and béarnaise. I love that sauce. I could have eaten an order by itself. In fact, it’s listed on the menu as a separate item under “Surf & Turf.”
Other items on the menu move beyond steak, with shareable sides (don’t miss the creamed spinach) and entrees like salmon, duck breast, and a grilled filet of butternut squash. On Mondays, try the 16-ounce prime rib special with a loaded baked potato and a choice of salad: Caesar or iceberg wedge.
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I asked chef/owner Ryan Trimm to tell me his mission statement for the restaurant. “We felt that downtown was in need of a steakhouse, one that focused on the traditions of the American steakhouse: prime cuts of beef, raw bar, wine, whiskey,” he says. “No frills, except for my own twists on a few sides. I have a love for vegetables, specifically regionally grown things.”
— Michael Donahue
117 Union Ave. (901-433-9851) $$-$$$. Open for dinner seven days a week at 5 p.m. Bar menu starts at 4 p.m.
Strano by Chef Josh
Chef Josh Steiner, whose former restaurant was located in Cooper-Young, re-emerged this year in East Memphis utilizing his Sicilian- and Moroccan-influenced upbringing for a comprehensive menu of Italian dishes based on the Sicilian practice of using the freshest possible ingredients.
At Strano by Chef Josh, the menu opens with a bevy of shared plates, featuring seafood-oriented dishes like the lobster tater tots or calamari, and antipasti selections such as cheese and charcuterie plates. One or two diners with a carnivorous appetite can also feast on the aptly named Bucket of Bones: baby lamb chops, smoked pork ribs, fried chicken legs, and roasted bone marrow best spread on warm bread.
Strano’s pasta section includes all the staples, with spaghetti and meatballs, Bolognese, and pesto all featured prominently. Daily selections of market fish and meat are always available, but no trip to Strano is complete without a look at the pizza on offer. Pepperoni, portobello, and margherita all make appearances, but the most interesting choice is the Uovo topped with prosciutto, garlic cream sauce, arugula, and fried egg mixed in with the cheese.
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For breakfast fans, Strano hosts weekend brunch with omelettes, scrambles, and breakfast bowls. Don’t overlook Zeppole — donut holes made in-house and slathered with chocolate and caramel sauce — or bottomless mimosas to truly complete Strano’s brunch experience.
— Samuel X. Cicci
518 Perkins Ext. (901-275-8986) $-$$$. Open at 11 a.m. for lunch and dinner seven days a week and brunch Saturday and Sunday.
Sunrise Memphis
If breakfast is the most important meal of the day, then the Medical District’s Sunrise Memphis might just be one of the city’s best spots to say good morning. A three-way collaboration between Craig Blondis, Roger Sapp, and Sweet Grass chef Ryan Trimm, the quick-serve-style diner offers an eclectic menu with a wide array of Southern dishes (some say it has the best biscuits in town) and international twists.
In the mood for simple bacon and eggs? Order The Usual — fried egg, cheddar, and bacon — or mix it up with one of the restaurant’s breakfast bowls. Have a hankering for South Korean cuisine? Go with the Sunrise bestseller Bi Bim Breakfast, a marvelous combination of char siu pork, fried egg, kimchi, scallion, pickled daikon, and sticky rice. Feel like a meet-up with the King? Try the King Biscuit, a whopper of a biscuit stacked with egg, fried chicken, country ham, and sausage gravy.
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At lunch, Sunrise still serves omelettes and pancakes, but there are other options, too, like a Cajun turkey sandwich, a bacon cheeseburger, and an Asian fried chicken tossed in bi bim sauce and served on a bun with sriracha mayo and kimchi.
Despite a wide array of options, there’s no wrong choice at Sunrise. On weekends, the restaurant might even bring in Tennessee singer-songwriters for relaxed entertainment while you sip on a mimosa, a cup of J. Brooks coffee, or one of the restaurant’s specialty cocktails.
— Samuel X. Cicci
670 Jefferson Ave. (901-552-3144) $. Open 7 days a week for breakfast and lunch from 6 a.m. to 3 p.m.
Hattie B’s Hot Chicken
While Memphians may have their squabbles with Nashville, spicy fried chicken is clearly something we all can agree on.
On a recent weekend afternoon, the line to Hattie B’s counter stretched across the room from the entrance. With hardly an empty seat in the Cooper Street restaurant, diners were eager to order the chicken and waffles, a Southern specialty only served there on Sundays, with pillowy, sweet waffles alongside freshly fried chicken. But more importantly, patrons wanted their chicken with a kick.
The packed house — a regular occurrence here — is proof that the Nashville-born chicken craze came in hot to Memphis, literally. Hattie B’s offers crispy fried chicken six ways: Southern (no heat) and five spicy varieties (mild, medium, hot, Damn Hot, and Shut the Cluck Up) made with a seasoning base of cayenne pepper, with habañero and ghost pepper added in as the heat levels rise.
Available in tenders or the more hands-on quarters (prepare to tear apart the legs and thighs), the chicken packs a punch, but the restaurant’s Top 10 designation shows we’re willing to take the hit. Add a side of chilled black-eyed pea salad, made with red and green peppers and a dash of vinegar, to cool the palate. Or go full South and order the pimento mac and cheese to complete the perfect plate.
— Shara Clark
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596 S. Cooper st. (901-424-5900) $. Open seven days a week at 11 a.m. for lunch, Monday through Saturday for dinner, and late-night Friday and Saturday.
Wolf River Brisket Co.
Seasonal cocktails — a smoked salt margarita is a must — and smoked brisket, chicken, salmon, and wings at Wolf River Brisket Co. have spurred loyal followings at both the original restaurant on Wolf River Boulevard and at a second location in Olive Branch, open since late summer.
A new concept for owners Kirk Cotham and Chad Foreman, who also own Pyro’s Fire Fresh Pizza, the restaurants fill a niche for affordable casual dining that is familiar yet chef-driven. Certainly, Chef Gannon Hamilton, a Memphis restaurant veteran, brings impressive experience to the table. “I have a lot of family from Texas, and they would be ashamed of me if I passed up the opportunity to work at a brisket restaurant,” Hamilton said in an interview earlier this year.
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For soups, sandwiches, shared plates, and entrees, Hamilton’s menu moves beyond expected norms, combining local barbecue tastes with regional styles. Individual dishes, including sides, also show surprise twists: toasted Hawaiian bread topped with pimento cheese and bacon jam; burnt ends, pickles, and slaw piled on cornbread waffles; and baked cheese grits — a favorite on the menu — cooked with smoked chicken stock and garnished with pickled green tomatoes.
The restaurant’s mix-and-match biscuit sliders are another runaway hit, Cotham says: “My mom would call them angel biscuits, and we make them fresh every day.”
— Pamela Denney
9947 Wolf River Blvd. (901-316-5590) and 6542 Goodman Rd. in Olive Branch (662-932-2931) $-$$. Open Monday through Saturday at 11 a.m. for lunch and dinner.
Hopdoddy Burger Bar
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It’s a good thing that a full roll of paper towels rests on each table at Hopdoddy. You’re going to get messy, in the best way, chowing down on one of these burgers. Cooked medium-rare with a beautiful sliver of pink through the center, the patty’s juices seep out with each bite, pooling the plate if you dare to put the burger down to eat a fry.
The menu’s mouthwatering variety of burgers served at their two Memphis locations includes the El Diablo, which features pepper jack cheese, habañeros, serranos, caramelized onions, salsa roja, and chipotle aioli. The Breakfast Burger patty is made with a combination of ground sausage, ham, and beef and topped with egg, Applewood smoked bacon, and hash browns — the best of breakfast and dinner worlds sandwiched inside a soft, house-made bun. Chicken, turkey, tuna, and veggie patties are also available, in addition to the vegan Impossible burger, an entirely plant-based option.
A big bowl of fries — Kennebec or sweet potatoes — is a nice addition for groups and can be ordered plain or with such toppings as green chile queso or hot honey and sage. Do not, I repeat, do not skip the milkshakes. One of these decadent, sippable concoctions (Nutella Chocolate Pretzel!) is a seriously sweet way to end the meal.
— Shara Clark
2-6 S. Cooper St. (901-654-5100) and 4585 Poplar Ave. (901-683-0700) $. Open seven days a week at 11 a.m. for lunch and dinner and late-night Friday and Saturday.
Global Café
There’s that local rock star, and over there is the Twitter friend, who looks like she’s on a first date. It seems everybody is here at Global Café, located inside Crosstown Concourse. There’s a real sense of community. It feels like family.
Recently, NPR did a story on Global Café and its larger mission of providing meaningful work for immigrants, as well as a place to break bread. Global Cafe was carved out of some extra space at Curb Market. The result is a bright, pristine place with three stalls, offering food from Syria, Sudan, and Nepal.
The food is served vaguely cafeteria style, but this is no ordinary cafeteria food — oh no! There’s Nepalese dumplings, chow mein, and noodle soup from the Nepal stall; a smoky babaganoush with pita, kabobs, and stuffed grape leaves from the Syria stall; and hummus with falafel, sambusa, and chicken shawarma from the Sudan stall.
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A heaping plate of chow mein will set you back $8.50 and is enough for two meals for the budget-conscious, which might leave you with enough for a drink from the full bar, manned by manager Juan Viramontes. The cocktail menu features nods to the restaurant’s host countries, as well as some classics like the Mai Tai and the martini. The iced mocha, with vodka, Kahlua, Irish cream, and topped with whipped cream, can serve as dessert — the exclamation point to a perfect meal.
— Susan Ellis
1350 Concourse Ave. (901 512-6890) $. Open at 11 a.m. for lunch and dinner seven days a week.
The Liquor Store
Welcome to Fantasy Island! Stay with us here. On the one hand, up at the counter of The Liquor Store, you can easily picture yourself in a Mad Men-era reverie. You’re in your period-appropriate smart suit, sensible heels, and gloves, enjoying piping hot coffee in a logoed mug and a piece of The Liquor Store’s signature tres leches cake (which is très delicious).
On the other hand, The Liquor Store is thoroughly modern, with its thoughtful menu, full bar, and notes of Cuban influence. Breakfast is served all day. We’re talking generous heaps of hash browns, pancakes, steak, and eggs. But wait, there’s more: crab dip, cheese fries, chopped salad, Salisbury steak (!), and burgers (including the vegan-friendly Impossible Burger). The bar menu features some throwbacks, including a champagne cocktail and a milk punch, but this milk punch is made with matcha, a green tea powder.
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The restaurant’s name comes from the one-time purpose of the site. For the restaurant, the building was thoroughly rehabbed, and the interior is now an Instagrammer’s delight with pretty green accents and a palm-frond fabric, calling up the tropics. Out back is a patio bar, which makes use of repurposed shipping containers. It’s like a little island in the middle of Binghampton. Yep, a fantasy island!
— Susan Ellis
2655 Broad Ave. (901-405-5477) $. Open at 8 a.m. for breakfast, lunch, and dinner Monday through Saturday, and Sunday, from 8 a.m. to 4 p.m.
Libro at Laurelwood
I love Libro at Laurelwood, the restaurant at Novel bookstore. It’s — in a word — civilized. People are quietly engaged in conversations at the restaurant’s bar or tables, while people in the bookstore area read or browse.
According to Josh Spotts and his wife, Caley, whom I sat next to at the bar, Libro is where they eat at least once a week. The restaurant is “easy,” Caley says. “And so good,” Josh adds. The couple also love Sunday brunch, where they take their three children.
Even better, the food is spectacular. Since the restaurant’s executive chef Armando Gagliano told me about the dish, porcini mushroom ravioli is my go-to order every time I eat at Libro. The popular dish, which includes goat cheese, ricotta, chives, toasted pine nuts and butter, is rich and delicious. The roasted tomato soup — made with garlic, Cabrales blue cheese, and fried ginger — also is impressive, and I usually get the cobbler of the day. The one I ordered at a recent lunch was the berry cobbler. To make it even better, I topped the dessert with Amaretto whipping cream, which is made in-house.
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For me, it’s always a good sign to see a chef from another restaurant at the one I’m patronizing. Andrew Adams, executive chef at Acre Restaurant, says he loves to come in, grab a book, and eat.
— Michael Donahue
387 Perkins Ext. inside Novel (901-800-2656) $$. Open Monday through Saturday from 9 a.m. for breakfast, lunch, and dinner and Sunday at 11 a.m. for brunch.
