The duck duo with spinach madeleine. Photographs by Justin Fox Burks
As the host walks us upstairs to our window seat overlooking Broad Avenue, the energy in Bounty is palpable. Groups of patrons fill the dining room, chatting as they pass plates from person to person. The sounds of jubilant gatherings, of families and children, friends and colleagues, bounce off the bare-brick walls. Servers move quickly between tables, carrying cocktails and heaping helpings of grilled broccolini and fried oysters. Outside, the brightly painted water tower — a landmark of sorts for the area — glows above the bustling street, illuminated by slowly changing colored lights.
In its nearly four years as an anchor in the emerging midtown arts district, Bounty on Broad, which notably features family-style service with shared plates, has made a name for itself with scenes such as the one we experienced during an early November Friday dinner service. Executive chef Russell Casey, who has been working in restaurant kitchens since he was 14 years old, says this type of excitement and rapport is what has kept him in the business. “The fast-paced energy and the rush and thrill of a good service definitely got me hooked on it,” he says.
Casey’s first stint in a kitchen was as a dishwasher. (“I think my mom just wanted to get me out of the house for the summer,” he says with a smile.) He later worked as a busboy at Grove Grill, followed by his first job as a kitchen manager at 19, working through the ranks and learning from others along the way. In his mid-20s, Casey immersed himself in fine dining, where, he says, “things started clicking more for me with flavors, how they mesh. I’m not formally trained. I kind of come from the school of hard knocks.”
Plum-sauce-marinated pork tenderloin.
Casey has been at Bounty for nearly three years and his learned melding of flavors is apparent. The Plum Sauce Marinated Pork Tenderloin, for example, is marinated overnight in an Asian-inspired mixture of plum, tamari, and soy sauce before it’s seared, finished in the oven, and topped with a Creole mustard vinaigrette. Slices of juicy tenderloin are plated with diced, pan-fried sweet potatoes seasoned with chipotle and lime and sprinkled with a crunchy, slightly sweet pecan streusel. Scoop up a forkful of mixed components for a surprising symphony of spice and texture.
Other global flavors can be found on the menu in dishes like the chef’s signature Eggplant Lasagna, in which tender, but not overly soft, slivers of eggplant rest in an Indian Makhani marinara, spiced with yera masala and fenugreek. A traditionally French technique is used in preparing the Duck Duo, a decadent dish with a confit duck leg that’s cured with salt and spices for up to 20 hours to “draw the gaminess out,” Casey says, before it’s cooked in duck fat and finished on a skillet to perfectly crisp the skin. A duck breast, crusted with Chinese five-spice, is pan-seared (“we render the fat out until it’s crispy; it keeps it from being rubbery”), and the two are plated with spinach madeleine.
One of Bounty’s defining features has always been its all-gluten-free menu. When Casey first joined the team, he’d never done gluten-free, but he approached the mandate as a challenge. “I wanted to still do cool dishes and figure out how I could do them gluten-free instead of it limiting me,” he recalls.
“I wanted to still do cool dishes and figure out how I could do them gluten-free instead of it limiting me," says Chef Russell Casey.
The success of this endeavor can be seen throughout the menu where Casey incorporates cornmeal sourced from Hanna Farm in Arkansas and gluten-free flour as breading on fried items or to prepare a standout on the brunch menu: the Waffle Foster. You’d never know the fluffy, just-sweet-enough waffle is gluten-free, and to seal the deal, it’s topped with brandied bananas, fresh whipped cream, and toasted almonds.
Like evening meals, weekend brunch is also abuzz, with diners enjoying standard brunch cocktails, in addition to a gem on the menu: the What’s the Dill, a bright orange libation made with aquavit, freshly squeezed carrot juice, jalapeño honey syrup, and fresh dill. A rich brunch dish, the Grits and Grillades, makes use of leftover bits from hand-cut sirloin and New York strip dusted with gluten-free flour and fried in butter. Its robust sauce begins with heirloom tomatoes and a generous portion of fresh herbs and is cooked low and slow until the flavors ripen. Drag the spoon from the sauce into the creamy gouda grits (and yes, ask to add the poached egg) for maximum impact.
Since Casey’s been at the helm, he’s aimed to establish and maintain the restaurant’s identity. What does he want that identity to reflect? “Fresh, unadulterated ingredients,” he says, “really putting your heart and soul into the cuisine, and layering flavors from the bottom up by starting with fresh herbs, making good stocks, and building sauces. I’ve got a good crew. As long as they execute it properly, we keep it rolling.”
Shara’s Picks: Three to Try
Bounty on Broad
2519 Broad Ave.
901-410-8131
★★★
Food: The completely gluten-free menu is served family-style with shareable small plates, entrees, and sides, and a focus on locally sourced ingredients.
Drinks: Menus have been revamped in recent months: “We upped our game with the wines and did a whole new craft cocktail list,” Casey says.
Atmosphere: Dressy or casual; great for family groups, friends, or couples. Expect noise levels to rise with bigger weekend crowds, especially upstairs. Downstairs, tables overlook an open kitchen.
Service: Friendly and attentive. First time dining family-style and not sure how much to order for your group? Your server can help.
Up Next: Plans to transform the former butcher space downstairs into a more private wine room are in motion.
Prices: Smaller plates: $15-$17.50; sides: $13-$17; main courses: $32-$42, desserts: $10; brunch mains: $12-$22; brunch sides: $4-$6.
Open: Opens for dinner Monday through Thursday from 5 p.m. to 9:30 p.m.; dinner Friday and Saturday from 5 to 10 p.m.; Saturday and Sunday brunch from 11 a.m. to 2 p.m.
