Bar Keough’s front door opens onto the sidewalk about 10 feet from the intersection of Peabody and Cooper in Midtown — making it a corner bar in the most literal sense of the phrase. Inside, it’s a welcoming space, with a curved red Formica bar on one side and a fabulous vintage jukebox anchoring the back wall. The overhead lights are from Belgium, funky and colorful, a hip touch that somehow works with the retro furnishings and colorful David Bowie posters on the walls. It’s a space that reflects the man who created it — Kevin Keough.
photograph by bruce vanwyngarden
Kevin Keough
“I opened Bar Keough in November 2019,” he says, “not exactly perfect timing. I was closed by March.” But after the pandemic passed, the bar reopened and has since become a staple of the neighborhood, anchoring an intersection with three other restaurants — Slider Inn, Bari, and Cafe 1912.
“I started this place because I wanted to own a neighborhood bar,” Keough says, “but I also wanted to integrate some of the things I like about European bars. When I travel, I’ll go into a place, say in Marseille or wherever, and think, ‘I like this place, I like the feel of it, but why do I like it?’ And lots of times it’s because the bar is in a 200-year-old building and they’ve tried to modernize it some ways through the years, maybe adding a Formica bar or modern lighting. I wanted Bar Keough to have some of that feel — non-pretentious, proletariat, and comfortable — not too bougie.”
After working for years with restaurateur Karen Carrier at Automatic Slim’s and The Beauty Shop, Keough set out on his own 10 years ago, opening Cafe Keough on Main Street, in the heart of Downtown. Like Bar Keough, it occupies an old building and offers a simple menu and eclectic decor.
photograph by bruce vanwyngarden
That philosophy of combining the traditional and eclectic extends to Keough’s take on drinks as well as decor. “I noticed when I went to bars in Ireland that they’d have three beers on tap,” he says, “so that’s the way we do it here: Guinness, Negro Modelo, and Stella. I like the local Memphis brewers and we serve their canned beers, but on tap I want people to know what they’re getting. None of this Belgian white, cinnamon, tangerine-rind stuff. You drink one of those and you need a Tums. I want to give the customer a beer they’re familiar with.”
Given his take on fancy brews, it’s not surprising that Keough has a similarly dim view of “craft cocktails.” When I ask him about his drink menu, he reaches under the bar and pulls out a weathered volume held together with black tape on the spine.
“It’s called Esquire’s Drink Book,” he says. “It was published in 1956, and if you look at these recipes, very few of them have more than three or four ingredients. Here’s the thing: If you’re making a drink where you have too many ingredients — herbs, fruits, and such — it takes too long. The customer gets irritated. So I’ve taken some of these simple old recipes and modified them.”
photograph by kevin keough
I check out the drink menu posted in a vintage glass sign-box behind the bar. “Tell me about the Ruby Begonia,” I say.
“That’s named after a business that used to be here” Keough says. “I wanted it to be a purple drink, so I used Inverness Gin, which has a little purple color, then I added Grand Marnier, lemon juice, and blue Caracao. It looks like an aquarium.”
“It sounds like something I should try,” I say.
“I’ll be happy to make you one.”
And so he does. And it’s not very long before Keough sets it gently in front of me. It is indeed purple. It’s also non-pretentious, proletariat, and comfortable — not too bougie. And really delicious. You should stop by Memphis’ best corner bar and try one.
Bar Keough is located at 247 South Cooper, 901-654-3851.
