Memphis Mainstays

A buffet of classic local dishes and desserts that bring comfort no matter what.

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It’s been a long and uncertain year and a half since the initial stay-at-home order was put in place to keep Memphians safe. With things gradually opening back up, it’s a testament to the strength of our dauntless food industry throughout this year and last, with chefs, managers, servers, and staff putting in every ounce of creativity, spirit, and grit that had transformed Memphis’ dining scene into a truly exceptional experience all around. Through the humid summers and dreary winters of the still-ongoing pandemic, restaurants worked overtime to make sure the dishes that we love were available to provide a spark. And more often than not, there were a few places that we kept turning back to. Compiled from many of our magazine staffers, these are our Memphis Mainstays: the calming and comforting plates that we always counted on to brighten up our tables.

Riko’s Kickin’ Chicken

I can think of many ways to make a wing, but a combo of excess dripping sauce and a crispy exterior that’s barely holding in the juicy, tender meat might be the perfect combination. If that’s the threshold, Riko’s Kickin’ Chicken hasn’t led me astray yet.

Mariko and Tiffany Wiley know the wing business inside and out, having operated both food trucks and a brick-and-mortar establishment. And the scent of freshly baked wings while waiting for an order convinces customers to come back even before they’ve opened a box. Wings will forever be my comfort food, and the ones at Riko’s always seem to be surprisingly large and plump (seriously, where do they get these chickens?).

Traditional hot sauce brings the heat when I’m in the mood for traditional, evenly coated among all the wings in that tightly packed styrofoam container. The classic sauce keeps things fiery, but not too much so. A more savory appetite calls for lemon pepper, while honey gold is quintessential Memphis. And when it’s time to really crank things up, Hot X is just the thing.

Sweet Grass / Next Door — Badass Nachos

Fine dining is, well, fine — but sometimes the day calls for something just a bit messier from your neighborhood bar. In Cooper-Young, chef Ryan Trimm at SweetGrass / Next Door has the solution. The confidently titled “badass nachos” certainly live up to their moniker, presenting a heaping pile of in-house goodness.

All the toppings in Trimm’s nachos are made from scratch. The chili and cheese sauces meld together at the bottom of the plate for a unique savory injection to prop up the meal, along with a healthy dollop of tomatoes, pickled jalapeños, sour cream, onions, peppers, and cilantro. But the real cherry on top, if you will, is the brisket, smoked in-house and stacked atop the staggering pile. It’s tender enough to pull apart with a fork (or hands), and is the coup de grace for this surprisingly photogenic take on a classic.

Our intrepid Memphis Flyer reporter Toby Sells swears by the badass nachos, constantly turning to them for culinary comfort during the darkest days of the pandemic. “Messy as hell, but so good!” is his ringing endorsement. And while it’s tempting to just dive right in, here’s a tip: Take some time to spread all the fixings around. That way, if you’ve ordered a plate to share, one person can’t just take all the most fully loaded nachos for themselves.

Global Café — Taco Tuesday

Taco Tuesday should be a federal holiday, in my opinion. But for now, I heed the siren’s call from Crosstown Concourse’s Global Café food hall and social enterprise.

During a year working from the dull colors and dim lighting of my apartment, Tuesdays provided a joyous respite when I was feeling stir-crazy. A few quick clicks would bring a platter of general manager Juan Viramontes’ street-style tacos to my door (free delivery), soft and small tortillas covered in spiced chicken, beef, carnitas, or even black beans when the vegan mood strikes. And that’s before mentioning the option to add on freshly baked chips and salsa plus an extremely loaded margarita which, I assure my colleagues, was only consumed after work hours.

It was delicious, not too filling, and always a welcome sight during the work week. Global Café’s tacos are an easy and approachable dish no matter when they’re ordered, but the Taco Tuesday special was just the remedy when things looked bleak. They say it’s the simple things in life, and tacos certainly ticked that box. Global Café was there for me during the pandemic, and for so many more people as well — constantly raising money to provide food to those who couldn’t afford it or putting together boxes for hardworking medical professionals.

One friend recounted a story from the Memphis snowstorm of 2021, when his family had no water and their vehicles were snowed in. They ordered a large family platter and drinks from Global Café. Juan pulled up in a giant truck decked out in snow chains, they tell me, with food and water aplenty. Above and beyond, indeed.

Slim & Husky’s Pizza Beeria — Pizza (and Cinnamon Rolls)

Last year, Slim & Husky’s exploded onto the Memphis pizza scene, when owners Clint Gray, Derrick Moore, and Emanuel Reed brought their fast-casual gourmet pizza concept over from Nashville and set up shop on Union Ave.

The art- and music-themed enterprise is a hub for culture and community, but on the dining side of things, Slim & Husky’s offers up a doughy canvas to design as you please with toppings ranging from conventional pepperoni to salmon.

And their in-house recipes are nothing to sniff at. Meat-lovers are covered with the Cee No Green, a hearty amalgamation of ground beef, pepperoni, bacon, Canadian bacon, and Italian sausage. On the flip side, Nothing But A “V” Thang rakes in the vegetables accompanying vegan pepperoni and vegan cheese.

But slow down, pizza fans. No trip to Slim & Husky’s is complete without an order of fresh-baked cinnamon rolls. And we’re not just talking regular ol’ rolls. Sure, that’s an option, but branch out with the Ninja Tartle, slathered in green apple sauce and a jalapeño cream cheese glaze, or the Cookie Monsta, with white chocolate sauce and Oreo and peanut butter crumbles. Our favorite? A softer fruity sweetness is captured in the Halle Berry, blueberry sauce with a fresh lemon glaze.

Sabor Caribe — Patacones

Much of my pandemic time was spent scrolling the internet to see what new restaurant looked like a good bet, and one name that kept popping up was Sabor Caribe, a small Venezuelan establishment on Madison Ave. Arepas are always good, but the first thing that caught my eye were the patacones – or crazy plantains. Using two deep-fried slices of the banana-esque fruit on a sandwich instead of bread? Why hadn’t I thought of that before? The idea intrigued me enough that I was immediately hopping into my vehicle for a food adventure.

Well, I’ve since seen the light. The two crispy slices of patacones prepared by journalist-turned-restaurateur César González make a perfect platter, which I usually order with shredded chicken, mixed all up in a slaw-like cabbage mix and cheese. The crunchy, and mildly sweet, exterior gives it a flavor beyond conventional lunch fare without overstepping. And with a dash of spicy sauce added in, that simply elevates the dish yet again.

It’s that simple: Plantains are better than sliced bread.

Muddy’s Bake Shop — Cupcakes

When your day or your week has gone sour, sometimes Muddy’s Bake Shop has the perfect treat, whether it’s iconic cupcakes, pies, cookies, or cakes. Each week, the bakery offers a new set of flavors for those in need of something exciting, along with their everyday menu for creatures of habit.

Of those everyday items, the Truman Capote is a personal go-to — chocolate with vanilla icing — a classic combination that never fails to satisfy a sweet tooth. But the Plain Jane (vanilla + vanilla) or the Prozac (chocolate + chocolate) never fails either. You really can’t make a wrong decision at Muddy’s; every cupcake is moist, fluffy cake topped with creamy, buttery icing, capped with fun sprinkles and served with a smile that can turn a day around.

This past year, Muddy’s consolidated into one location on Broad Avenue, but owner and founder Kat Gordon has plans to expand, with a new food truck, and (covid-permitting) reinstated in-person baking classes, which are now offered virtually. In the meantime, though, you can walk in and shop in-person, Thursdays-Saturdays, or pre-order online (a good idea since they sell out at an impressive speed). A staple in the Memphis community and named one of Southern Living’s The South’s Best Bakeries 2021, Muddy’s is a delightful treat. — Abigail Morici

Tsunami — Roasted Sea Bass and Bacon-Wrapped Dates

Who doesn’t love bacon? Wrap it around anything and Americans will come running for even just a little taste. But put that kind of power into the hands of one of the best chefs around, and it’s just too much to pass up.

Many of our magazine staffers have talked up Ben Smith’s bacon-wrapped dates appetizer at Tsunami as a mainstay during 2020 and beyond. The five sweet-tasting dates are expertly wrapped in crispy – yet not too crunchy – bacon, poised on a bed of soft cabbage, and accentuated with a light, sweet chili sauce. It’s simplicity in the hands of one of Memphis’ most highly regarded chefs, and it works wonders.

If that’s just the start, let’s mention the roasted sea bass on black thai rice, which has had over a two-decade run on the menu. Rich and creamy butter coupled with soy sauce make for an incredible taste. Perhaps one only bested by bacon-wrapped dates? That’s up to you.

Southall Café — Omelettes and Tater Tots

Breakfast is the most important meal of the day, and Southall Café certainly takes that to heart with its chef-driven, Mexican-American-themed dishes. But some of our colleagues couldn’t stop talking about a simple, yet beloved, side dish: the tater tots. The crispy golden starch almost feels like it will melt in your mouth and makes for an excellent accompaniment to any of Southall’s meals.

But tots alone won’t cut it, even if you just pop them in one after another. In lieu of a breakfast hash, why not pair them with some of the café’s breakfasts? You can’t go wrong with any of the omelettes. Start with a Memphis/French connection with the Bluff Omelette, cramming in caramelized Bluff City Fungi with chives, queso fresco, and, of course, creme fraiche.

But my personal favorite is the Southall Omelette, looping in smoked gouda and beef carnitas (house-cured ham is also an option). Southall may occasionally change its menu, but it has a few constants: Always expect some excellent fusion twists, and those crispy golden tots sure aren’t going anywhere.

Dino’s Grill — Ravioli

I never really cooked much before the pandemic, but ate out almost every night. During the lockdown, I made pasta dishes with canned salmon, chicken, and sardines, and I got very creative, thanks to balsamic vinegar, and poppy and celery seeds. In fact, I began to think the different shapes of pasta — rigatoni, farfalle, and macaroni — had their own unique taste.

I made and ate dinner more than 350 times during the pandemic. But I did have a special go-to-treat: the ravioli at Dino’s Grill. My order included the large serving of ravioli, double Texas toast, and Dino’s incredible made-in-house tiramisu.

I have no idea how much sodium is in Dino’s ravioli, but I feel it’s healthier than other ravioli dishes. Dino’s ravioli is made with chicken and spinach, which are both good for you. And it’s delicious.

And it was fun to see fellow mask-wearers Mario Grisanti and his dad, Rudy, when one or the other brought my order out to my truck. The Grisantis told me how the chicken ravioli came about. His great grandfather, Frank Benedetti, made it that way at his old State Café at Beale and Main, according to Mario. “I guess it was because beef was a lot more expensive during the Depression than chicken was,” Rudy says. “That’s just his old recipe, and that’s the way we’ve always made it.” – Michael Donahue

India Palace — Chicken Curry

A surfeit of soul-soothing dishes are on the menu at India Palace, which can mean placing an order ratchets up the anxiety. The fear of missing something amazing on their long list of Indian fare is very real, whether that’s spicy chicken vindaloo, the rich spinach and cubed cheese of palak paneer, or even the rasmalai dessert’s chunks of cottage cheese in a milk sauce. But when the choice is too much to bear, turn to one of the staples: chicken curry.

It is, in essence, a snapshot of traditional South Asian cuisine. It looks so simple, an orange glob tucked neatly into one of the Palace’s tubular plastic takeout containers. But the heady mix of garlic, ginger, tomatoes, onion, and a secret blend of curry spices makes for an irresistible sauce placed over a bed of basmati rice cooked to the perfect level.

Fill out your table with vegetable samosas or pakoras, or raita, or the onion bhaji. Still having trouble deciding? India Palace’s lunchtime buffet is the way to go.

Pho Binh — Lemongrass Tofu

Much ink has been spilled about Pho Binh’s lemongrass tofu by many writers, and for good reason. The Vietnamese restaurant’s signature dish might just be the closest thing mere mortals can come to tasting ambrosia, the fabled delicacy of the Greek gods that could grant immortality. Through the good times and bad, lemongrass tofu has been there as either one of many delectable options at the famed lunch buffet, or as a comforting takeout order.

Back in December, the owners faced a scare when several members of the family were hit with covid-19, but they rallied safely with the full support of the community. It’s a humble establishment, and at its core, comfort is something that Pho Binh has always provided. Memphians from all walks of life pass through the doors just for a little taste, and it’s a safe bet that there will always be a familiar face there.

Lemongrass tofu was always an easy choice for a much-needed boost. But how important is the food and the institution? Pho Binh recently announced that they’d be raising their prices as ingredient costs rose, and nobody cared. In fact, the many comments that flew in were all ones of support. I could talk more about the restaurant’s most popular dish, but I don’t need to. You know how good the lemongrass tofu is, and you know that you’re going back for more.