photograph by caleb sigler
West African dishes like seafood okra stew and maafe are available by the pound.
Editor’s Note: For our Top 10 New Restaurants list, published in full in the February 2022 issue, our editorial team selected (you guessed it) ten of the places we think represent the best of our city’s culinary future. We'll be spotlighting each of the restaurants online over the next several days. Please note that this is not a ranked list; we love what each of the ten featured restaurants bring to the table. Bon appétit!
Bala’s Bistro
photograph by samuel x. cicci
Chef Bala Tounkara has seen large crowds flock to his upgraded restaurant space.
Bala Tounkara has been cooking in Memphis for almost two decades now. He struck out on his own a couple years ago in new digs on Elvis Presley Blvd. in Whitehaven. Tounkara brings fresh flavors to local diners with dishes from his home in Mali and West Africa broadly.
“Many people come in, and they’ve never had African food before. If they’re hesitant, I’ll ask them about things they like and see what might be a good starting point for them.” — Bala Tounkara
Tounkara initially operated in a small spot on Raines Road, but frequently thought about relocating to a bigger space where he could grow his business. So this past November, he closed that Raines location and moved into his new, much bigger space. That gave him the chance to rethink how he serves his customers. Now, instead of just à la carte items, Bala’s Bistro offers a hot bar that boasts all the best dishes like curry pepper chicken, jollof rice, and seafood okra stew — all available to order by the pound.
photograph by samuel x. cicci
Braised lamb served with yellow jollof rice, spinach, and a hibiscus slushie.
The hot bar rotates depending on availability, but there’s always the chance to try something novel and exciting, like curry goat or tender braised lamb. Otherwise, stick with the spicy chicken yassa or maafe, the West African peanut stew. Whether people are familiar with West African cuisine or not, Tounkara is always happy to point them in the right direction. “Many people come in, and they’ve never had African food before,” says Tounkara. “If they’re hesitant, I’ll ask them about things they like and see what might be a good starting point for them.”
Most of Tounkara’s meals come in vegan varieties, and he serves more traditional American options like hamburgers and barbecue for eaters not looking for an adventure. The bistro has recently expanded to include breakfast (think waffles, pancakes, and omelettes — with a West African twist), and stay tuned for fun evenings planned, like DJ and karaoke nights. Bala’s Bistro presents a unique restaurant experience in Memphis and gives anyone a chance to sample food that will take them on a journey. Just be sure to get there before the rarer dishes run out! — Samuel X. Cicci
