photograph by gracie driver
The windows and doors of KUYA were open to bustling South Main Street one evening in August when the air in Memphis felt tropical. With the breeze from a squadron of fans, a summery cocktail in hand, an assortment of boldly flavored food, and vibrant local art all around, I felt buoyed all the way to the Philippines.
Glimpses of the open kitchen to the side of the restaurant revealed the action behind each dish. Servers were straight to the point and helpful with any questions. A mere five tables were available inside, enhancing the intimate atmosphere. For a more sociable crowd, bar seating is available.
An immediate “green flag” for me when trying new restaurants is a small menu. It usually means that the team behind the food has focused on every detail rather than getting lost in a sea of options. I was also excited to see quintessential Filipino ingredients at the forefront.
While KUYA’s selection of beers is strong, I was more tempted by one of their six crafted cocktail options. The #2 contained gin, calamansi (a citrus unique to Southeast Asia), lemon, and lime, with an orange and Sichuan peppercorn foam that was tragically absent from my drink. Sichuan peppercorns notoriously have a tongue-tingling spice and citrusy note that would have made the cocktail pop. The blend of sweet and tart still made for a very enjoyable sip.
I’m coming back to KUYA. A well-priced restaurant with exciting flavors and great ambiance isn’t easy to come by.
If you take anything away from this review, order the chicken adobo. At first bite, I couldn’t help but smile. The chicken practically fell off the bone and tasted sweet, salty, savory, and sour all at once. Each order comes with a side of rice, and although the rice was slightly gloopy in texture, the golden garlicy oil ribbons throughout were delicious.
photograph by gracie driver
The Halo-Halo
For a bright start to the meal, the Kinilaw is a great option. Similar to ceviche, this traditional raw fish dish is gently cured with coconut vinegar and seasoned with ginger, orange, and creamy coconut milk. I do believe the dish could improve with herbs or other vegetables to add freshness and variety, but the black sesame-studded rice crackers added a fun and crunchy component that was so fun to eat.
I didn’t get a chance to try the chicken skewers, but I did get the Jollyburger Lumpia, which was an ode to the very popular Filipino food chain. The shredded prime chuck is combined with mozzarella and a sweet and tangy banana ketchup that becomes the filling for an egg roll-like appetizer. It comes with three dipping sauces; I recommend the sweet chili.
I also ordered the Sisig Baboy, a spicy and smoky pork belly dish topped with a raw egg yolk. The interactive element of mixing the yolk with the pork added to the dining experience, but the dish would benefit from rice, vegetables, or both. This would help balance the fattiness of the dish and make it a more well-rounded meal.
photograph by gracie driver
The Kare-Kare salad is studded with eggplant, bok choy, green beans, and fried tofu and finished with a creamy peanut dressing.
The Kare Kare Salad is a great big salad perfect for sharing. The spring greens, bok choy, fried tofu, eggplant, and a healthy drizzle of creamy peanut dressing are a combination I would never have thought of on my own, but would certainly order again. The intention behind the tofu is great because it adds a textual contrast. Ultimately, it was slightly chewy by the time it reached the table, but the other components made up for it. This dish would pair well with chicken adobo or their Pancit Kabute, which is a vegan mushroom noodle dish.
To round out the night, I got the only dessert option available: Halo-Halo. Now, I take sweet treats very seriously, and although I had heard of the traditional dessert, I’d never had the opportunity to sample it. The base is made from snowy shaved ice, sweetened evaporated milk drizzle, nutty ube ice cream, bright jellies, and the cutest leche flan on top: creamy, refreshing, and exactly what I needed with the weather.
I’m coming back to KUYA. A well-priced restaurant with exciting flavors and great ambiance isn’t easy to come by.
