photograph by bruce vanwyngarden
Editor’s Note: Nestled through the Memphis urban area are surprisingly tranquil green oases. If you’re ready for a break from the hustle for a spell, you don't need to travel far. From an otherworldly paddling voyage to the centering rhythm of a day on the trail, our hometown offers a wealth of opportunities to change your outlook — literally.
Some years ago, my wife and I signed up for an overnight canoe trip on the Mississippi River with river guide John Ruskey, who runs Quapaw Canoe Company out of Clarksdale, Mississippi. He and his team of guides build their own massive canoes and lead tours on the Mississippi, traveling like the French voyageurs and Native Americans used to do centuries ago. We were shuttled 40 miles upriver from Memphis, and our makeshift tribe floated (and paddled) down to the Wolf River Harbor over the next two days. It was a life-changing experience.
photograph by bruce vanwyngarden
One of the best parts of the trip was camping overnight on an island sandbar. We stayed up late, gathered around a bonfire in the middle of the Mississippi, singing along with Ruskey and his guitar under a glorious silver moon. We were awakened at dawn by the red ball of sun emerging over the river.
As Ruskey and his mates cooked breakfast, we walked around the island, marveling at the many tracks in the sand: turtle trails (the shells leaving a wide swath), curvy snake patterns, small animal prints, and countless birds, small and large — all had been active while we slept.
Ruskey, who is a philosophical sort and a tireless promoter of preserving the Mississippi, says the river is our “Grand Canyon,” a natural wonder equal of any on earth, and one that should be appreciated, even revered.
We were so moved by our experience that we bought a small boat and docked it at the Memphis Yacht Club. For the next several years, we boated on the Mississippi and camped on sandbars whenever the spirit moved us.
We learned the river is not to be feared (respected, yes), and that it is a glorious and inspirational place to spend your days — and nights.
