photograph by stephen traina
Editor’s Note: Nestled through the Memphis urban area are surprisingly tranquil green oases. If you’re ready for a break from the hustle for a spell, you don't need to travel far. From an otherworldly paddling voyage to the centering rhythm of a day on the trail, our hometown offers a wealth of opportunities to change your outlook — literally.
photograph by mike womack
A kayak is the preferred mode of transportation on the Ghost River.
The Ghost River has been part of my consciousness since I moved to Memphis 35 years ago. It’s even been on a few beer cans I’ve emptied. But until last month, I’d never been on the Ghost. An eight-mile stretch of the 100-mile Wolf River (accessed at LaGrange in Fayette County), it’s a waterway that leans toward legend and mystery. So my wife and I hopped in a canoe and joined a few guides from the Wolf River Conservancy for some outdoor sleuthing.
We chose a canoe (over a kayak) because we like challenges and love each other deeply. But place two people in a canoe and there are three forces moving the vessel. The third — river current — will have the final say, like it or not. A canoe, according to guide Mike Dawkins, is known as a “divorce boat” on the Ghost. (He told us this two miles into our journey.) So pro tip: A single kayak makes for easier navigation, whether or not it saves your marriage.
The first three miles of the Ghost are a meandering obstacle course, fallen hardwood trees steering your route from either side, under the surface, and above. There’s a technique for essentially doing the limbo under a fallen tree without getting stuck or capsizing. Master this technique.
photograph by jim gafford
A distinctive cypress knee; let’s call it the Ghost River Grizzly.
The ecosystem transforms multiple times as you paddle your way west. Once you reach the swamp section, hardwoods give way to cypress and tupelo gum trees. We got a close-up view for the first time of spatterdock, a plant from the water lily family with a flower that could pass for a lemon lollipop. Cypress knees — spiked “stumps,” often emerging from the river itself — give the waterway an extraterrestrial feel. They’re the supporting cast to the tall, untouched tree life shading much of the voyage.
Our party surprised a beaver (you’ll see several carefully constructed lodges along the way) and passed a few sunbathing water snakes. Second pro tip: Look carefully at any limb you choose to touch, but better to keep your hands on your paddle. Not long after entering Spirit Lake — the current slows, but the cypress trees remain — an osprey circled our group, making sure we weren’t a threat to its nest. There’s Ghost life under the surface, too. Several species of mussel thrive on the river bottom.
Origin stories of the Ghost’s name vary. One suggests sections of the river actually disappear in certain light and weather conditions. Another involves fallen Union soldiers in the swamp after a Civil War battle. Regardless, there’s a spirit quality to seeing a part of the world you’ve never experienced before but you know has thrived — within reach — for hundreds of years. And finally, there’s the quiet. You know it when you “hear” it, but the Ghost River is apart, away, on its own. When you’re not ducking or dodging, allow that quiet to consume you a few minutes. Still the best staycation within reach.
The Wolf River Conservancy organizes guided tours for the first Saturday of all 12 months. You can register at wolfriver.org or call 901-452-6500.
