The salsa tasted too much like tomato sauce at the new Las Delicias on Quince Avenue, but the guacomole was the same excellent chunky mix of avocados, cilantro and lime that I order every time I visit. The pork tacos, served on four mini house-made corn tortillas, and tamales also were excellent.
I always worry when a good restaurant opens multiple locations because sometimes the food doesn't stack up. At the third location for Las Delicias, the salsa was disappointing but the rest of the meal was just fine, especially the tilapia ceviche, an aromatic bowl of perfectly diced fish, tomatoes and peppers garnished with hefty slices of avocado. The restaurant's charro beans also tasted exactly like the soupy pintos I know and love: smokey with a little kick and seasoned with ham, bacon and tiny pieces of chorizo.
Formerly occupied by Rick Farmer's Jarrett's, the space looks exactly the same as it did before without the artwork. After sitting down inside, we moved outdoors to watch the moon and enjoy the patio's towering oak tree. Hopefully, owner Antonio Martinez will add some personality to the restaurant's interior space after he settles in. If not, head to the patio and order a double margarita on the rocks. Made with freshly squeezed limes, the drinks are a happy way to weather this summer's unforgiving heat.
Las Delicias, 5609 Quince Road (901) 800-2873
